Anyone else having an issue with buttons not responding randomly? It has happened in a couple races where the P would not engage. Other times it was Y or A but it’s not consistently the same. Could this be with the new firmware?
I have noticed this as well. Once it was the "P" button and another time it was button #4 (Y). I was also noticing some "ghost" button presses coming from button #3 (B). In all cases, disconnecting then reconnecting using the QR resolved the problem. It's very random though and happens maybe once every ten sessions.
Joseph GossenMember, Moderator, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
I am in discussion with Fanatec regarding this issue. Going to try the new firmware to see if it resolves the issue. Will update.
Joseph GossenMember, Moderator, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Quick tip: Might be an obvious thing but if your wheel is making a lot of cracking noise try this. I loosened all the front face screws about 1/2-to a full turn and it is completely silent now.
I found this over at Racedepartment.com, but I haven't had the chance to verify this.
By default they are set to 12 position mode (each position on the dial is a button that is always on, so the wheel will be constantly pushing whatever button the rotary dials are set to)...go into the Fanatec wheel settings page with the Mclaren rim connected (AKA Windows' game controller settings) and under one of the tabs there is an option to change the rotary dial to one of 3 modes: 12-position (default), 11-position (position 1 is OFF, all other positions are buttons) and disabled. I'm at work so I don't have a screenshot to show you.
I've not yet tried this yet, but I'm guessing the following is possible:
Intended action: Left rotary switch at position 1, left toggle switch adjusts brake bias up/down Left rotary switch at position 2, left toggle switch adjusts fuel mixture up/down Left rotary switch at position 3, left toggle switch adjusts traction control system up/down
Possible way to achieve the above using macros:
Rotary switch position 1 = constantly holds shift Rotary switch position 2 = constantly holds ctrl Rotary switch position 3 = constantly holds alt
toggle switch up = a toggle switch down = z
Then in iRacing:
shift + a = brake bias + shift + z = brake bias -
crtl + a = mixture +
crtl + z = mixture - shift + a = TCS + shift + z = TCS -
I'm guessing something like the above would work. For more switch positions, I suppose combinations of shift+alt, alt + crtl, crtl + shift could be used?
Either way, I wish there was some documented way to use these rotary switches.
Joseph GossenMember, Moderator, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Hi Chris,
Have you changed the O-Ring? If it is larger than the original, it would make the wheel difficult to remove. I’ve experience this in the past and went back to the original with no issues. Also try and apply a bit of lube to the space at the back of the QR. you should be able to pull it off. Then apply lube to the shaft.
just got the maclaren wheel and updated my csl elite base for xbox and the wheel ,seems some settings have changed ffb is now 0-200 and there are two new options at the end of the settings pulse or constant. ,anyway i dont know what they do or affect
Comments
Intended action:
Left rotary switch at position 1, left toggle switch adjusts brake bias up/down
Left rotary switch at position 2, left toggle switch adjusts fuel mixture up/down
Left rotary switch at position 3, left toggle switch adjusts traction control system up/down
Possible way to achieve the above using macros:
Rotary switch position 1 = constantly holds shift
Rotary switch position 2 = constantly holds ctrl
Rotary switch position 3 = constantly holds alt
toggle switch up = a
toggle switch down = z
Then in iRacing:
shift + a = brake bias +
shift + z = brake bias -
shift + a = TCS +
shift + z = TCS -
Either way, I wish there was some documented way to use these rotary switches.