Maybe Murice can chime in, I'm on the latest AC:C and the latest beta drivers for the DD2 with 1.23 beta Fanalab. Using your profiles and checking my settings between Fanalab and AC:C, I am only getting the first and last LED to light up on my V2 wheel with AC:C. In F1 2019 / 2020 I get all the lights. Am I missing something? Is there a bug with AC:C? This issue persisted on beta and non-beta firmwares FYI.
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
There is no bug other than that FanaLab can not convert EU profiles with comma as separator to US/CA with punctuation as separator.
Therefore the profiles only work correctly for EU users and US users have to adjust the LED values all for themselves because they are all shown as 100 because the comma in the pws file was removed but not replaced with a dot.
You would then need to have a look into each pws file and adjust the correct values in FanaLab and overwrite the profile, so when you see 7965 as LED value in the pws this would mean 79.65 to enter in FanaLab etc.
That makes sense! I thought maybe AC:C 1.5 that came out last week broke some integration. I went ahead and did a test with my trusty 911.2 profile and they all work! Kudos.
Do I need to remove any commas anywhere else in the pws? While I'm in there, what values can I assign to tell the profile I am not using Fanatec pedals? I'm using HE pedals currently.
Really appreciate the quick answer and support! :)
I've been using Maurice's profiles but a bit curious.
Are they tuned for DD2 with Torque Key installed (high TQ on)?
When I adjust my FFB down in Fanalab do I need to adjust the gain down as well? I read elsewhere that Maurice mentioned reducing gain too much removes detail in the FFB but I found adjusting the gain down a bit with the FFB helped to smooth out the feeling. Is there a recommenced ratio to the adjustments or should I leave the in game Gain at recommended and keep playing with Fanalab FFB?
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Always with Torque Key on a DD2.
I would leave the in game gain at 60-70. Lower gain vue reduces too much the game FFB resolution
Tuning is bugging me, need to spend some time working on the right feeling for me. Some of the settings you can feel the notchyness around the centre....especially with high SPR and DPR
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
SPR isnt used by any game other than Forza (and AMS2 and pC2 but only in the menu, not while driving).
DPR is also not used by many games while driving, only AC when Gyro is active and ACC when Dynamic Damping is enabled or when FanaLabs Dynamic Damper is working and in F1 when damper is enabled in the options but other games dont really use DPR.
Hey guys, have the Fanatec CSL Elite Wheelbase 1.1 and set it up like recommended in the Forums, as well as ingame. But since the Patch today for ACC it feels worse, much softer, squishier than usual and giving me less feedback - totally baffling me as of right now I am lost on what to do to get it back to where it was :(
I unplugged it, resarted and flashed the firmware with latest drivers again, but no effect. It feels def worse than before Patch, to soft, to squishy, at he same settings that I previously used - anyone else experiencing the same?
Anyone experiencing very light feel in the wheel when turning, I assume it is meant to be the steering going light when understeering but it does it on every corner for me. Is there a setting I can change for this?
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Hi Maurice, DD1 with V2 formula rim, and recommended settings in the OP of this thread and recommended in game settings from OP but with 60 instead if 45 in game. Happens with all cars. Only just noticed it since one of the last ACC updates.
ACC - mein Clubsport Lenkrad dreht schneller als das virtuelle Lenkrad im Auto mit den Einstellungen wir oben - selbst bei 50% (Range ist 50 - 200). Kann man das ändern?
Good morning since we are talking about FFB, I wanted to ask if you adapt the Ffb for each car? Me on my 2.5 80 ffb and 40 Fei -1 drift, the rest at 100, I don't remember the value on ACC but it should be about 60. Why am I asking this because obviously every car has physics? so should you adapt the FFb if the steering wheel feels too heavy? I use the 720 a lot, the steering wheel is not very hard when cornering, while with Ferrari Porsche and Lamborghini I am forced to lower the value from the steering wheel. or should I leave a standard value for all cars. I hope I was clear, sorry for my bad English
Comments
Maurice - would you mind posting starting settings I should try for ACC?
also what firmwares, sw etc.
@ Maurice do you have any other ideas how to solve my problem or do you think my dd2 wheelbase is broken and I should contact the Fanatec support?
What do I turn down if I want to decrease FFB strength but retain detail?
That's a contradiction in itself...
To lower FFB strength you need to decrease the FF value. But of course with a too low FF setting you also miss FFB details.
Maybe Murice can chime in, I'm on the latest AC:C and the latest beta drivers for the DD2 with 1.23 beta Fanalab. Using your profiles and checking my settings between Fanalab and AC:C, I am only getting the first and last LED to light up on my V2 wheel with AC:C. In F1 2019 / 2020 I get all the lights. Am I missing something? Is there a bug with AC:C? This issue persisted on beta and non-beta firmwares FYI.
There is no bug other than that FanaLab can not convert EU profiles with comma as separator to US/CA with punctuation as separator.
Therefore the profiles only work correctly for EU users and US users have to adjust the LED values all for themselves because they are all shown as 100 because the comma in the pws file was removed but not replaced with a dot.
You would then need to have a look into each pws file and adjust the correct values in FanaLab and overwrite the profile, so when you see 7965 as LED value in the pws this would mean 79.65 to enter in FanaLab etc.
That makes sense! I thought maybe AC:C 1.5 that came out last week broke some integration. I went ahead and did a test with my trusty 911.2 profile and they all work! Kudos.
Do I need to remove any commas anywhere else in the pws? While I'm in there, what values can I assign to tell the profile I am not using Fanatec pedals? I'm using HE pedals currently.
Really appreciate the quick answer and support! :)
[Post Editied]
I was looking for Maurice's profiles for ACC
Found them here: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1125/fanalab-share-your-favorite-profiles/p4
I've been using Maurice's profiles but a bit curious.
Are they tuned for DD2 with Torque Key installed (high TQ on)?
When I adjust my FFB down in Fanalab do I need to adjust the gain down as well? I read elsewhere that Maurice mentioned reducing gain too much removes detail in the FFB but I found adjusting the gain down a bit with the FFB helped to smooth out the feeling. Is there a recommenced ratio to the adjustments or should I leave the in game Gain at recommended and keep playing with Fanalab FFB?
Always with Torque Key on a DD2.
I would leave the in game gain at 60-70. Lower gain vue reduces too much the game FFB resolution
Whats the recommended SW, FW etc i should be using now?
On a DD1, Formula V2 with APM.
346 or 365.
Whats that for? is there a beta list for:
DD1 FW
DD1 SW
Drivers etc
Driver 346 has Base FW 662, Motor 30, SW 28.
Driver 365 has Base FW 672, Motor 38, SW 34.
got ya, will check what i'm on.
Tuning is bugging me, need to spend some time working on the right feeling for me. Some of the settings you can feel the notchyness around the centre....especially with high SPR and DPR
SPR isnt used by any game other than Forza (and AMS2 and pC2 but only in the menu, not while driving).
DPR is also not used by many games while driving, only AC when Gyro is active and ACC when Dynamic Damping is enabled or when FanaLabs Dynamic Damper is working and in F1 when damper is enabled in the options but other games dont really use DPR.
So SPR can knock OFF or leave 100.
DPR in ACC - dyno damping?
Hey guys, have the Fanatec CSL Elite Wheelbase 1.1 and set it up like recommended in the Forums, as well as ingame. But since the Patch today for ACC it feels worse, much softer, squishier than usual and giving me less feedback - totally baffling me as of right now I am lost on what to do to get it back to where it was :(
I unplugged it, resarted and flashed the firmware with latest drivers again, but no effect. It feels def worse than before Patch, to soft, to squishy, at he same settings that I previously used - anyone else experiencing the same?
Anyone experiencing very light feel in the wheel when turning, I assume it is meant to be the steering going light when understeering but it does it on every corner for me. Is there a setting I can change for this?
Which Wheel Base? Which Steering Wheel? Which car in game? What are your FFB settings on the wheel and in the game?
Hi Maurice, DD1 with V2 formula rim, and recommended settings in the OP of this thread and recommended in game settings from OP but with 60 instead if 45 in game. Happens with all cars. Only just noticed it since one of the last ACC updates.
ACC - mein Clubsport Lenkrad dreht schneller als das virtuelle Lenkrad im Auto mit den Einstellungen wir oben - selbst bei 50% (Range ist 50 - 200). Kann man das ändern?
Good morning since we are talking about FFB, I wanted to ask if you adapt the Ffb for each car? Me on my 2.5 80 ffb and 40 Fei -1 drift, the rest at 100, I don't remember the value on ACC but it should be about 60. Why am I asking this because obviously every car has physics? so should you adapt the FFb if the steering wheel feels too heavy? I use the 720 a lot, the steering wheel is not very hard when cornering, while with Ferrari Porsche and Lamborghini I am forced to lower the value from the steering wheel. or should I leave a standard value for all cars. I hope I was clear, sorry for my bad English