Has any owners of the v2 wheel bases that use it on a ps3 had any issues?. I am getting a weird thing happen. Where my paddles on my formula rim are not registering gear changes. And also sometimes the accelerator peddle doesn’t register anything when putting foot down. But brake pedal still works and then sometimes no pedals work at all. i was playing Gran Turismo 6 for a good couple of hours then bang this happened. I tried it on another game and the same thing was happening there too.
I havent tested yet on a pc to see if its a ps3 only issue. As my laptop has died and cant run any games on it. Please if someone else has had this issue on ps3 please let me know. As it will alleviate any fears that i have purchased a dud wheel.
For optimum performance, always calibrate using a pc. I play GT6, Formula 1 2014 and it's nothing but the best racing sim experience. HTH.
Has any owners of the v2 wheel bases that use it on a ps3 had any issues?. I am getting a weird thing happen. Where my paddles on my formula rim are not registering gear changes. And also sometimes the accelerator peddle doesn’t register anything when putting foot down. But brake pedal still works and then sometimes no pedals work at all. i was playing Gran Turismo 6 for a good couple of hours then bang this happened. I tried it on another game and the same thing was happening there too.
I havent tested yet on a pc to see if its a ps3 only issue. As my laptop has died and cant run any games on it. Please if someone else has had this issue on ps3 please let me know. As it will alleviate any fears that i have purchased a dud wheel.
For optimum performance, always calibrate using a pc. I play GT6, Formula 1 2014 and it's nothing but the best racing sim experience. HTH.
I have mate i updated the firmware on purchase. The wheel was working fine now i cant change gears at all
I received my invoice on the 16th with no follow up shipping e-mail with a tracking number. Heard the doorbell this morning and the fed ex man left me three Fanatec parcels . Weird I didn't receive a tracking number but i'm not complaining.
I also have a spare US invite code if anyone wants one. First one to PM me gets it.
I'm getting my Clubsport Formula Rim adapted for hand braking and accelerating action, which I need because of my parapelgia (can't use pedals). Done with an extra set of shift paddles converted to analogue activation and connected to the PCB instead of the left hand joystick.
Would be great to have the base to actually test it!
Ich habe zwei codes EU und kann Dir gerne einen schenken
<:-P
Wie kann ich Dir den cod senden ?
Brauche Deinen email adresse, die gleiche die Du bei Fanatec benutzt
:-bd
Chris BrosharMember, Beta tester 0x02CA--0x0001, Beta Tester _0x0003, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester
Looking for an EU code - please PN!
I'm getting my Clubsport Formula Rim adapted for hand braking and accelerating action, which I need because of my parapelgia (can't use pedals). Done with an extra set of shift paddles converted to analogue activation and connected to the PCB instead of the left hand joystick.
Would be great to have the base to actually test it!
Thank you,
Martin
I was actually looking into this for a friend. Are you doing it yourself or is someone doing it for you? I'd like to get one also.
@Chris: A friend of mine is engineer and very active in R/C racing so he is doing the conversion for me. When everything is finished, I'll share. We use original Fanatec replacement parts, (a second set of paddle boxes and paddles, the paddle box modified to allow a wider range of movement ) with custom axles onto which standard rotary potentiometers are mounted. This only works for the Formula wheel of course, because that won't be used with more than 270° steering angles - if you did, you'd lose contact with the paddles. I'm used to this input from real life kart racing:
)
For the Fanatec road car wheel I'd yet need to buy I want to build a replica of the combined brake/accelerator lever I'm using in my real cars:
Best regards,
Martin
Chris BrosharMember, Beta tester 0x02CA--0x0001, Beta Tester _0x0003, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester
@Chris: A friend of mine is engineer and very active in R/C racing so he is doing the conversion for me. When everything is finished, I'll share. We use original Fanatec replacement parts, (a second set of paddle boxes and paddles, the paddle box modified to allow a wider range of movement ) with custom axles onto which standard rotary potentiometers are mounted. This only works for the Formula wheel of course, because that won't be used with more than 270° steering angles - if you did, you'd lose contact with the paddles. I'm used to this input from real life kart racing:
)
For the Fanatec road car wheel I'd yet need to buy I want to build a replica of the combined brake/accelerator lever I'm using in my real cars:
Best regards,
Martin
Please keep me updated. Feel free to PM me if you want. The car sounds like a beast. Love it!!
@Chris I got my code from Slawomir (thank you!) and ordered immediately. The car is only a 80hp Smart Roadster, but the 3 cylinder makes it sound manlier than it really is But it is light (790kg) and has RWD in a really great chassis. So on the road, on small tracks like this and slalom courses it packs some punch. Stock base Mk II Elises, top of the line MX-5s, Fiat 500 Abarths and Mini Cooper S are well inside its reach here. Since the steering has no power assistance whatsoever, it is ultra communicative - thus my demands from a Sim wheel are very high, and I chose Fanatec
Thomas will there a program or somthing rather for existing customers of the V1 to recycle their old bases for a V2 and pay the difference for it, instead of reselling it and giving someone else the headache of when things go wrong. We should recycle the V1's into V2.
Chris BrosharMember, Beta tester 0x02CA--0x0001, Beta Tester _0x0003, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester
Thomas will there a program or somthing rather for existing customers of the V1 to recycle their old bases for a V2 and pay the difference for it, instead of reselling it and giving someone else the headache of when things go wrong. We should recycle the V1's into V2.
Did MS take your xbox 360 in on trade? Apple take your phone back? Sony take PS3s back? I'm sorry but this makes no sense to me. :-q
Just received my invoice too. Xmas might have been a disappointment but what a NY surprise! Looking forward to the end of the week. Fanatec's webshop is just around the corner from me, I could so easily have just picked it up from there.
Thanks Paul I was a week after you so I hope to get some advice soon, fingers crossed !
Also I don't know if many here read this by Thomas, it was many months ago but I only just came across it and it is very interesting and exciting details about the quality of CSW V2.
The comment link is here :- www.virtualr.net/fanatec-clubsport-wheel-base-v2-revealed
Thomas Jackermeier said :-
In order to add to the Servo vs. Direct Drive discussion I might want to add a few words.
A Direct Drive wheel is much easier to develop and therefore the choice of small companies with limited R&D budget. The huge size of the motor makes it very expensive as the cost is also raised by the bigger motor driver and power supply.
And in theory we could develop a belt driven wheel with 20 NM or more so a lot of things can be done with a belt drive. But there is no doubt it has some technical advantages over a belt drive. However the really interesting question is: How big are these advantages in practice and how much money is it worth ? If a belt wears out after 10 - 15 years of daily use, does that really matter?
The biggest difference between current Direct Drive wheels on the market and the V2 is the maximum torque. If you crank up the FF forces you will be shocked how brutal those DD wheels are and it certainly is impressive if you try it on a show or at a friend who wants to impress you. But will you run at that force level on a 4 hour race?
The cogging (notchiness) of a V2 cannot be felt by humans. You need a machiene to measure it. So if a DD wheel is better on that, how much does it really matter if only test instruments can feel the difference ? There is also a big difference between belt drive and belt drive. On our Porsche wheels for example we are using GT belts on plastic pulleys and with the need of belt tensioners. We use some glide bearings instead of ball bearings. (btw the competition does it the similar). In such a system there is some noticable loss.
On the new CSW B V2 however, we are using Poly V belts on metal pulleys with much higher precision and there is no need for belt tensioners. Other than in the CSW V1, the use of big ball bearings on the pulley and in the motor make sure that we can use a lot of belt tension in the V2. The higher the belt tension, the lower the negative effects of dampening subtle force effects. And there is no belt slip at all.
This system is so effective that we even had to add artificial dampening (which can be de-activated) by default to the motor just like direct drive wheels do.
So if our belt drive is already with such a low drag that we had to add artificial dampeneing in order to avoid problems on the center what does that tell you about how close a belt drive can get to a direct drive?
Weekend home parcel delivery from 6 Dec Click to expand To ensure smooth and timely delivery of your parcels, we will be undertaking weekend mail deliveries on the following weekends:
Comments
I received my invoice on the 16th with no follow up shipping e-mail with a tracking number. Heard the doorbell this morning and the fed ex man left me three Fanatec parcels
I also have a spare US invite code if anyone wants one. First one to PM me gets it.
I was actually looking into this for a friend. Are you doing it yourself or is someone doing it for you? I'd like to get one also.
Thanks
Please keep me updated. Feel free to PM me if you want. The car sounds like a beast. Love it!!
Did MS take your xbox 360 in on trade? Apple take your phone back? Sony take PS3s back? I'm sorry but this makes no sense to me. :-q
Thanks Thomas (Fanatec)
Good News!!!!!
The Clubsport V.2 Bases are now shipping in Australia!!!!!
Just got an email with a shipped invoice and a separate email with the tracking number.
I'm in Australia and I ordered on 3rd October 2014.
Nice long expiry date on my second code. Will post here if it is not taken.
In order to add to the Servo vs. Direct Drive discussion I might want to add a few words.
A Direct Drive wheel is much easier to develop and therefore the choice of small companies with limited R&D budget. The huge size of the motor makes it very expensive as the cost is also raised by the bigger motor driver and power supply.
And in theory we could develop a belt driven wheel with 20 NM or more so a lot of things can be done with a belt drive. But there is no doubt it has some technical advantages over a belt drive. However the really interesting question is: How big are these advantages in practice and how much money is it worth ? If a belt wears out after 10 - 15 years of daily use, does that really matter?
The biggest difference between current Direct Drive wheels on the market and the V2 is the maximum torque. If you crank up the FF forces you will be shocked how brutal those DD wheels are and it certainly is impressive if you try it on a show or at a friend who wants to impress you. But will you run at that force level on a 4 hour race?
The cogging (notchiness) of a V2 cannot be felt by humans. You need a machiene to measure it. So if a DD wheel is better on that, how much does it really matter if only test instruments can feel the difference ? There is also a big difference between belt drive and belt drive. On our Porsche wheels for example we are using GT belts on plastic pulleys and with the need of belt tensioners. We use some glide bearings instead of ball bearings. (btw the competition does it the similar). In such a system there is some noticable loss.
On the new CSW B V2 however, we are using Poly V belts on metal pulleys with much higher precision and there is no need for belt tensioners. Other than in the CSW V1, the use of big ball bearings on the pulley and in the motor make sure that we can use a lot of belt tension in the V2. The higher the belt tension, the lower the negative effects of dampening subtle force effects. And there is no belt slip at all.
This system is so effective that we even had to add artificial dampening (which can be de-activated) by default to the motor just like direct drive wheels do.
So if our belt drive is already with such a low drag that we had to add artificial dampeneing in order to avoid problems on the center what does that tell you about how close a belt drive can get to a direct drive?
16/10 Placed my order and tracking 30/12. Hopefully delivery today.
Weekend home parcel delivery from 6 Dec Click to expand
To ensure smooth and timely delivery of your parcels, we will be undertaking weekend mail deliveries on the following weekends:
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