Hi , I bought a steering wheel ( Porsche 918 ) Assetto Corsa play but the game does not work rev meter , it is required to set up or something somewhere that the game does not support , thank you
Chris BrosharMember, Beta tester 0x02CA--0x0001, Beta Tester _0x0003, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester
Also, is it possible to overfill the oil chamber? I filled them both up to the top, but now the pedal is almost solid? It goes half way down abc then just stops. I set the load cell to 1 (it was defaulted to 10)
So should I empty some oil out, have I over filled it? And how can I use the CSL shifter mount to mount the CSS I genuinely cant see how to secure the CSS on to the CSL mount??? Thomas... Anyone .. Help please x
Edit.. Took it off and depressed the pedal (with my hand) without the shock attached to feel how much pressure it required and it was exactly the same? Load cell is on 0 but there no difference between 0 and 10? Is my cell broken?
From what I know the oil reservoir must be filled full to use it and you should really feel difference between 0 and 10 when you've got it hooked up and on..did you calibrate everything first ?
I'll put up as many vids I can find to help you...
That load cell video is really interesting as I think mine may not be functioning as expected
I figured out how to connect the shifter, you have to unscrew the corners of the shifter, pop in the slider screws and then attach it that way. However, I never got a quick start quite hence my confusion and lack of understanding on that
I've set up my oil exactly as the video suggests, so Im confident that the shock is not the issue, but at the moment it seems like my load cell does nothing at all when set between 0-10 ... I'm about to test this connected to my PC and will report back.
That aside... WOW this stuff is beautiful, I think Thomas should also include a TShirt with his orders too as everything from the packaging to the products them selves are just jaw droppingly beautiful.
I will upgrade the firmware, connect everything up and let you all know how it goes. My only other concerne is the length of the shifter cable, i think it might just not reach the back of the wheel based on where I mounted it :-/ can I just buy a longer cable or are these specific kinds?
So excited and will let you know how it goes and hopefully post some pictures etc too
Since new update on smartphone I can't send messages overhere anymore, so it was a copy/past thing and size of letters too big....sorry for that. Now at my pc.
If you go to the homepage, Natalie, don't you se a red button logo on the right side of the screen...think that's the easiest way to ask your cable question now ?
Edit: checked by region and yes chat function available to you Natalie...your question is a tech problm so go ahead
Also found this one about pc calibrating pedals, shifters and steering wheels...
Ok, I relocated the shifter, got the pedals connected and now kind of understand all these features
Thomas, a little helpful item in the F1 Rim box would be an instruction manual for the "carbon" version of the wheel
I was pressing the buttons to enable PS3 mode but was unsuccessful, I followed the guide provided on,y to find out later that you guys changed the way PS3 in enabled on the carbon version but you still supply the standard quick start guide, figured it out now though
Next question... (I'm full of them today) is there a cheat sheet to display what buttons are what when in PS3 mode? I can't seem to find one?
Other than that I'm good to go! Will hopefully get this up and running over the weekend ... So excited
@antoine that video is really helpful, cleared up many Of the menu settings, so thanks for linking that fir me
Natalie Bissell if you Have a CodeMasters Game Dirt3, F1 2014, Grid Auto Sport you can Cheat to Find Button Mapping... 1)Draw a Map of the Rim and Button Placement...2)Go to the Button Map Screen...3)Use the G27 profile and push each Button and it will tell you what that Button Represnts.
This is the Button Mapping i Made for the 918 Porsche Rim... I Didnt make 1 for the F1 Rim yet I Can Make 1 tonight and post it if you want.
Hi all and hope your well. My csw v2 arrived yesterday and have already clocked up around 8/9 hours of gameplay on it. I have noticed a slight drop in force feedback power, this could be just the belts running in or just me getting used to it. Just wondered if anyone else had experienced a similar situation. Thanks for your time guys.
Hi all and hope your well. My csw v2 arrived yesterday and have already clocked up around 8/9 hours of gameplay on it. I have noticed a slight drop in force feedback power, this could be just the belts running in or just me getting used to it. Just wondered if anyone else had experienced a similar situation. Thanks for your time guys.
No noticeable power fluctuation since i've had mine, about 7/8 hours as well put into it so far. I haven't needed the FOR higher than 100 most times, so seems like there's still plenty of power in reserve for me atleast. Hopefully it's just in your head @-)
Natalie Bissell if you Have a CodeMasters Game Dirt3, F1 2014, Grid Auto Sport you can Cheat to Find Button Mapping... 1)Draw a Map of the Rim and Button Placement...2)Go to the Button Map Screen...3)Use the G27 profile and push each Button and it will tell you what that Button Represnts.
This is the Button Mapping i Made for the 918 Porsche Rim... I Didnt make 1 for the F1 Rim yet I Can Make 1 tonight and post it if you want.
That's exactly what I needed grimey, thank you. An F1 cheat sheet would be great too if you get round to it, what a life saver that is
Did you notice that your Porsche rim quick guide says to press the two bottom buttons to enable PS3 mode, when in fact that's incorrect it's the bottom left and the one up/right. I noticed the F1 rim also had an incorrect user guide and the CSL instruction manual is different from the video no wonder I was so confused
@Clive It's mad you should say this, I tried GT6 and it was dangerous when I used the defaults. I moved it down to 1 and 1 on both settings and even then it was still really powerful. However, now I'm on 10 and 4 and it seems exactly the same as 1 and 1 ... I'm not sure why, perhaps it takes a while to get used to it, maybe It felt powerful as I hadn't experienced a wheel like this before, and quickly became accustomed to it?
I'm still trying to figure out some good settings for my games, I'm not 100% comfortable yet, but my other hafl loves it.
I noticed some "judder/notchyness/jarring" effects in GT6 and also no feeling of loss of front end grip. One I figure out the settings that suit me, I'm sure it'll all come together.
My next investigation is the following: Does tightening the spring (compressing it using the tension screw) make the pedal stiffer or shorten the range?
Does doing the same on the accelerator make it stiffer or shorten the throw?
The volume control on the load cell is at 10 but I cant "feel" any difference when at 1, so I'm going to find out what the load cell is doing exactly.
Then to practice practice practice
I do love the equipment though, Thomas should be proud! (Except the fact ALL the literature is incorrect)
Thanks for all the tips, cheat sheets, advice, help and support though everyone... I'd not have managed to get this far without the help from you lot
Natalie Bissell if you Have a CodeMasters Game Dirt3, F1 2014, Grid Auto Sport you can Cheat to Find Button Mapping... 1)Draw a Map of the Rim and Button Placement...2)Go to the Button Map Screen...3)Use the G27 profile and push each Button and it will tell you what that Button Represnts.
This is the Button Mapping i Made for the 918 Porsche Rim... I Didnt make 1 for the F1 Rim yet I Can Make 1 tonight and post it if you want.
That's exactly what I needed grimey, thank you. An F1 cheat sheet would be great too if you get round to it, what a life saver that is
Did you notice that your Porsche rim quick guide says to press the two bottom buttons to enable PS3 mode, when in fact that's incorrect it's the bottom left and the one up/right. I noticed the F1 rim also had an incorrect user guide and the CSL instruction manual is different from the video no wonder I was so confused
@Clive It's mad you should say this, I tried GT6 and it was dangerous when I used the defaults. I moved it down to 1 and 1 on both settings and even then it was still really powerful. However, now I'm on 10 and 4 and it seems exactly the same as 1 and 1 ... I'm not sure why, perhaps it takes a while to get used to it, maybe It felt powerful as I hadn't experienced a wheel like this before, and quickly became accustomed to it?
I'm still trying to figure out some good settings for my games, I'm not 100% comfortable yet, but my other hafl loves it.
I noticed some "judder/notchyness/jarring" effects in GT6 and also no feeling of loss of front end grip. One I figure out the settings that suit me, I'm sure it'll all come together.
My next investigation is the following: Does tightening the spring (compressing it using the tension screw) make the pedal stiffer or shorten the range?
Does doing the same on the accelerator make it stiffer or shorten the throw?
The volume control on the load cell is at 10 but I cant "feel" any difference when at 1, so I'm going to find out what the load cell is doing exactly.
Then to practice practice practice
I do love the equipment though, Thomas should be proud! (Except the fact ALL the literature is incorrect)
Thanks for all the tips, cheat sheets, advice, help and support though everyone... I'd not have managed to get this far without the help from you lot
The tuning knob on the brakes don't do anything physically to the pedal, it just tells the game how sensitive you want the brake to be, brake saturation more or less. If you set it to 10, it will be most sensitive, 1 least sensitive, etc.
If you tighten the pedal springs, you should notice it become a little stiffer when pressed. If you want a much stiffer spring, you'll have to goto a hobby shop or the like that sells RC cars and they should have some stiffer springs that they use for shocks on the cars. I purchased some stiffer springs from HobbyTown USA. Bring in the one from your pedal set so you make sure to get the right size, should be pretty standard though.
@Grimey you are a star, that's going to help so much. Thank you
@Dillon I see.. So 10 means it's sensitive and 1 means it's less sensitive, so it doesn't physically feel any different but the pressure applied would need to be.... I get it now
And by tightening the spring it makes the pedal stiffer, but doesn't shorten the range, ahh that makes so much sense now and really is going to help me get this configured correctly. Thank you
Today I'm going to try to finish off building everything and securing it, I noticed the CSP actually flip forward when I press the brake to hard, so I either didn't set them up correctly, or Im too strong
Quick question... The manual States that every time you power cycle the wheel, that you must depress the accelerator, brake and clutch fully to calibrate the pedals.
Does that mean every time I turn my wheel on, and enable PS3 mode I should also fully depress my pedals to calibrate them? If so, are we required to this pre or post enabling PS3 mode?
Additionally, now that the new firmware requires a manual calibration of the centre, what does that mean if we don't get it exact and in fact have it 1 degree off or so? Does that mean the wheel will take that as the centre? I noticed the firmware it came with did an exact auto calibration and absolutely pin pointed the centre point automatically, why has this been changed?
Still plodding away and getting to grips with it all, but loving it all so far
Thank you for posting about the screws being loose. I just got my wheel in a few days ago, and checked here for some things, and found this. After reading, I checked my screws in the hub, and sure enough, all of them were loose. Thanks for warning us, too bad you had to find out the hard way.
Upon closer inspection, I noticed all the allen/hex screws inside the quick release mount were loose. Mainly the 5(3mm) around the perimeter, they were very loose, and the small one in the middle was only slightly. I quickly checked the other hex screws, which gladly there were none loose on the main front plate.
Those of you with new bases might want to check these, as I'm wondering if there wasn't any permanent damage done from flexing or whatnot. I thought I remember seeing someone with the same issue with one of the 1st batches sent out late last year, not sure though. [-(
Same thing happend to me so guys check those screws!
So, I got a surprise in the middle of last week. I didn't even know it had shipped out, until the day it arrived on my front porch, so it was quite a nice surprise to return home from work to. Anyways, I've managed to get it all buttoned down, hooked up, and running the way I want to. I've got the gist of it, having familiarized myself with previous wheels, setting this wheel up the way I wanted was pretty strait forward, but with more options, and tons more power! It's so smooth, I have a little bit of strait line wobble, but its familiar to what I had in my G27. I've turned up the dead-zone, and it helped. I think I may need to re-center the wheel. I've noticed it sits off to the left just a hair, not much, but just enough. I'll report back. Well here is a few pics of my setup. file:///Users/timothystovall/Library/Application%20Support/iLifeAssetManagement/assets/sub/01
Guess what.... I have another question I notice that the brake pedal has a rather large dead zone, it takes about 1" of movement before the driver on the PC recognises the pedal has been touched. After that all seems well, but that dead zone appears to be non configurable. Is that normal, is that expected?
Also, I have also watched lots of vides and abused Google for lots of info and advice, but I also notice people stating that when in the driver settings, and pressing the throttle pedal, the wheel and pedal vibrate as if to simulate engine vibration? Mine doesn't seem to do this, it only vibrates when the brake is pressed, again have I mis understood or is that supposed to be the case?
I'll up load a picture of mine shortly for everyone to see, it's coming along nicely thanks to everyone's help in here. I know I have been a pain, but I'll post a pic and you will see the fruits of your labour, I really do appreciate everyone in here
Guess what.... I have another question I notice that the brake pedal has a rather large dead zone, it takes about 1" of movement before the driver on the PC recognises the pedal has been touched. After that all seems well, but that dead zone appears to be non configurable. Is that normal, is that expected?
Also, I have also watched lots of vides and abused Google for lots of info and advice, but I also notice people stating that when in the driver settings, and pressing the throttle pedal, the wheel and pedal vibrate as if to simulate engine vibration? Mine doesn't seem to do this, it only vibrates when the brake is pressed, again have I mis understood or is that supposed to be the case?
I'll up load a picture of mine shortly for everyone to see, it's coming along nicely thanks to everyone's help in here. I know I have been a pain, but I'll post a pic and you will see the fruits of your labour, I really do appreciate everyone in here
Hey Natalie, The brake dead-zone does seem to be normal. I've been using them for a few months now, and I've gotten use to it. As far as the vibration to simulate "engine vibration", I am not aware of any such thing. To my understanding the wheel and brake pedal only vibrate under braking at what ever ABS brake point you have it set at. I love that feature. I have my ABS set around 72.
Hey Timothy, Thanks for clearing that up, in the video posted earlier there is a guy going through all the settings and he says when he presses the accerlator the wheel vibrates to produce an engine vibration feeling. Perhaps this was an older firmware thing, as I read there was other things link auto clutch etc that were removed from fir wares (the video is about the v1 beta so i assume much has changed since then)
So the dead zone is normal, that's great. I though I had a bad pair, I'll get used to it and am currently trying to set my pedals and with my eyes closed and visualise where I believe the pressure Indictator would be, when I get it right, that's me set currently have the load cell in about 7/8 and tightened the spring to its fullest as this feels most like my actual car so works well for me
The clutch is great though, it feels so real and the gear stick is awesome too. I haven't really finished building it yet, still lots of little things to do, but I have tested it a little with GT6 and it seems to be great so far.
Thanks for letting me know that's normal. I can move on from that and on to the next thing now not long until I stop posting questions, I promise
Hey Timothy, Thanks for clearing that up, in the video posted earlier there is a guy going through all the settings and he says when he presses the accerlator the wheel vibrates to produce an engine vibration feeling. Perhaps this was an older firmware thing, as I read there was other things link auto clutch etc that were removed from fir wares (the video is about the v1 beta so i assume much has changed since then)
So the dead zone is normal, that's great. I though I had a bad pair, I'll get used to it and am currently trying to set my pedals and with my eyes closed and visualise where I believe the pressure Indictator would be, when I get it right, that's me set currently have the load cell in about 7/8 and tightened the spring to its fullest as this feels most like my actual car so works well for me
The clutch is great though, it feels so real and the gear stick is awesome too. I haven't really finished building it yet, still lots of little things to do, but I have tested it a little with GT6 and it seems to be great so far.
Thanks for letting me know that's normal. I can move on from that and on to the next thing now not long until I stop posting questions, I promise
If you want vibration through the accelerator, you have to turn ABS off via the wheel LED menu. Then set your SHO value to preferred strength, this is how it worked on the v1 anyway
On my set of v2 pedals, I get about 1/4" deadzone before it starts to read, albeit this is while in PC mode. Not sure if it is different in PS3 mode, but 1" seems like alot. Could it be from having the pedals plugged into the base directly? I use separate USB for pedals, but don't think you can do that on PS3, unfortunately.
The mess comment you made above was a joke, right?
Ahh I haven't tried turning off ABS so that may be how that enables the acceleration vibration. It is definitely a feature of the V1 as you say, but I really like the ABS as it lets me know where my 75% lockup point is so ill keep it enabled, but at least I know it's not broken
My brake is connected to the wheel in PS3 mode, I notice in game that my accelerator has at least 1" at the full throttle end where it does nothing (the throttle maxes out at 75% depressed) and my brake first enable for the first 25% ... It's very likely this is PS3 specific as there appears to be no way to calibrate it out in PS3 mode. But again, it's good to know that my equipment is functioning as expected
As for the mess :-/ it needs a good tidy, I have stuff everywhere, parts, bags, wires I'm trying to find a good wire solution and maybe some kind of rollers so I can move it in and out when required sounds stupid I know, but I don't have much room so I have to move it into position as and when required (don't laugh)
Comments
You need Fanaleds. http://www.fanaleds.com. Have fun!!
I have no idea how to mount the shifter to the CSL? It has 6 bolts (but they don't grip into anything) can anyone give an idiot a hand
I know I'm missing something simple, but I just can "see" it?
6 screws, 6 square nuts, and the CSL shifter holder... But I can't seem to get the shifter to attach lol
So should I empty some oil out, have I over filled it?
And how can I use the CSL shifter mount to mount the CSS I genuinely cant see how to secure the CSS on to the CSL mount??? Thomas... Anyone .. Help please x
Edit..
Took it off and depressed the pedal (with my hand) without the shock attached to feel how much pressure it required and it was exactly the same? Load cell is on 0 but there no difference between 0 and 10? Is my cell broken?
Hey Natalie...just click on pictures to enlarge m and see how it's attached sideways to the seat structure.
http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/play-and-gaming-seats/csl-seat-eu.html
From what I know the oil reservoir must be filled full to use it and you should really feel difference between 0 and 10 when you've got it hooked up and on..did you calibrate everything first ?
I'll put up as many vids I can find to help you...
Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Manual:
Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V2 Brake Load Cell Issue and Replacement (HD):
These should help you out a lot...
I figured out how to connect the shifter, you have to unscrew the corners of the shifter, pop in the slider screws and then attach it that way. However, I never got a quick start quite hence my confusion and lack of understanding on that
I've set up my oil exactly as the video suggests, so Im confident that the shock is not the issue, but at the moment it seems like my load cell does nothing at all when set between 0-10 ... I'm about to test this connected to my PC and will report back.
That aside... WOW this stuff is beautiful, I think Thomas should also include a TShirt with his orders too as everything from the packaging to the products them selves are just jaw droppingly beautiful.
I will upgrade the firmware, connect everything up and let you all know how it goes. My only other concerne is the length of the shifter cable, i think it might just not reach the back of the wheel based on where I mounted it :-/ can I just buy a longer cable or are these specific kinds?
So excited and will let you know how it goes and hopefully post some pictures etc too
Unable to test shifter as the cable is to short to reach the wheel
@Thomas can I buy a longer cable from any store or are these a specific kind?
Cheers
Since new update on smartphone I can't send messages overhere anymore, so it was a copy/past thing and size of letters too big....sorry for that. Now at my pc.
If you go to the homepage, Natalie, don't you se a red button logo on the right side of the screen...think that's the easiest way to ask your cable question now ?
Edit: checked by region and yes chat function available to you Natalie...your question is a tech problm so go ahead
Also found this one about pc calibrating pedals, shifters and steering wheels...
http://youtu.be/vGVxZRcVdwk
Ok, I relocated the shifter, got the pedals connected and now kind of understand all these features
Thomas, a little helpful item in the F1 Rim box would be an instruction manual for the "carbon" version of the wheel
I was pressing the buttons to enable PS3 mode but was unsuccessful, I followed the guide provided on,y to find out later that you guys changed the way PS3 in enabled on the carbon version but you still supply the standard quick start guide, figured it out now though
Next question... (I'm full of them today) is there a cheat sheet to display what buttons are what when in PS3 mode? I can't seem to find one?
Other than that I'm good to go! Will hopefully get this up and running over the weekend ... So excited
@antoine that video is really helpful, cleared up many Of the menu settings, so thanks for linking that fir me
This is the Button Mapping i Made for the 918 Porsche Rim... I Didnt make 1 for the F1 Rim yet I Can Make 1 tonight and post it if you want.
That's exactly what I needed grimey, thank you. An F1 cheat sheet would be great too if you get round to it, what a life saver that is
Did you notice that your Porsche rim quick guide says to press the two bottom buttons to enable PS3 mode, when in fact that's incorrect
@Clive
It's mad you should say this, I tried GT6 and it was dangerous when I used the defaults. I moved it down to 1 and 1 on both settings and even then it was still really powerful. However, now I'm on 10 and 4 and it seems exactly the same as 1 and 1 ... I'm not sure why, perhaps it takes a while to get used to it, maybe It felt powerful as I hadn't experienced a wheel like this before, and quickly became accustomed to it?
I'm still trying to figure out some good settings for my games, I'm not 100% comfortable yet, but my other hafl loves it.
I noticed some "judder/notchyness/jarring" effects in GT6 and also no feeling of loss of front end grip. One I figure out the settings that suit me, I'm sure it'll all come together.
My next investigation is the following:
Does tightening the spring (compressing it using the tension screw) make the pedal stiffer or shorten the range?
Does doing the same on the accelerator make it stiffer or shorten the throw?
The volume control on the load cell is at 10 but I cant "feel" any difference when at 1, so I'm going to find out what the load cell is doing exactly.
Then to practice practice practice
I do love the equipment though, Thomas should be proud! (Except the fact ALL the literature is incorrect)
Thanks for all the tips, cheat sheets, advice, help and support though everyone... I'd not have managed to get this far without the help from you lot
@Dillon I see.. So 10 means it's sensitive and 1 means it's less sensitive, so it doesn't physically feel any different but the pressure applied would need to be.... I get it now
And by tightening the spring it makes the pedal stiffer, but doesn't shorten the range, ahh that makes so much sense now and really is going to help me get this configured correctly. Thank you
Today I'm going to try to finish off building everything and securing it, I noticed the CSP actually flip forward when I press the brake to hard, so I either didn't set them up correctly, or Im too strong
The manual States that every time you power cycle the wheel, that you must depress the accelerator, brake and clutch fully to calibrate the pedals.
Does that mean every time I turn my wheel on, and enable PS3 mode I should also fully depress my pedals to calibrate them? If so, are we required to this pre or post enabling PS3 mode?
Additionally, now that the new firmware requires a manual calibration of the centre, what does that mean if we don't get it exact and in fact have it 1 degree off or so? Does that mean the wheel will take that as the centre? I noticed the firmware it came with did an exact auto calibration and absolutely pin pointed the centre point automatically, why has this been changed?
Still plodding away and getting to grips with it all, but loving it all so far
Guess what.... I have another question
I notice that the brake pedal has a rather large dead zone, it takes about 1" of movement before the driver on the PC recognises the pedal has been touched. After that all seems well, but that dead zone appears to be non configurable. Is that normal, is that expected?
Also, I have also watched lots of vides and abused Google for lots of info and advice, but I also notice people stating that when in the driver settings, and pressing the throttle pedal, the wheel and pedal vibrate as if to simulate engine vibration? Mine doesn't seem to do this, it only vibrates when the brake is pressed, again have I mis understood or is that supposed to be the case?
I'll up load a picture of mine shortly for everyone to see, it's coming along nicely thanks to everyone's help in here. I know I have been a pain, but I'll post a pic and you will see the fruits of your labour, I really do appreciate everyone in here
Thanks for clearing that up, in the video posted earlier there is a guy going through all the settings and he says when he presses the accerlator the wheel vibrates to produce an engine vibration feeling. Perhaps this was an older firmware thing, as I read there was other things link auto clutch etc that were removed from fir wares (the video is about the v1 beta so i assume much has changed since then)
So the dead zone is normal, that's great. I though I had a bad pair, I'll get used to it and am currently trying to set my pedals and with my eyes closed and visualise where I believe the pressure Indictator would be, when I get it right, that's me set
The clutch is great though, it feels so real
Thanks for letting me know that's normal. I can move on from that and on to the next thing now
Ahh I haven't tried turning off ABS so that may be how that enables the acceleration vibration. It is definitely a feature of the V1 as you say, but I really like the ABS as it lets me know where my 75% lockup point is so ill keep it enabled, but at least I know it's not broken
My brake is connected to the wheel in PS3 mode, I notice in game that my accelerator has at least 1" at the full throttle end where it does nothing (the throttle maxes out at 75% depressed) and my brake first enable for the first 25% ... It's very likely this is PS3 specific as there appears to be no way to calibrate it out in PS3 mode. But again, it's good to know that my equipment is functioning as expected
As for the mess :-/ it needs a good tidy, I have stuff everywhere, parts, bags, wires