From which driver are you coming? Have you had Fanalab profiles which load automatically if you start a game? Did you check the new settings? Especially Interpolation can have a huge effect on a grainy feel in the wheel.
I simply put back the old Tuning Menu settings I had on previous version V365. Using the wheel, not FanaLab.
I have done some further testing.
I uninstalled the drivers and FanaLab, rebooted, re-installed drivers, rebooted, but decided to try without FanaLab, that that is currently NOT installed, updated firmware again, rebooted. Did motor calibration. But alas, same sand in motor feeling.
I have tried INT between 6 and 10, there is an improvement, but its still nothing like the smoothness of V365.
I tested on a few tracks and different cars in AMS2, some smooth ones like Interlagos, and others like Donington and Brands. Smoother tracks are definitely less sandy! But again, still not as smooth as V365.
Also, an observation to note, when no sim is running, if I turn the wheel, I can feel the sandy, notchy feeling all the time.
And one further observation, the sandy feeling is far more noticeable with the F1 2020 wheel attached, using the same Tuning Menu settings.
I would like to revert to V365 to do further testing.
I will say that this latest driver does feel as though there is more detail coming through the wheel. But I cant live with the sandy feeling!
I updated my brand new DD2 to 372 and Fanalab to 1.47 on the first day when 372 came out, same with several wheels, without any problems. I uninstalled old Driver and old Fanalab, rebooted, installed 372, rebooted, installed Fanalab 1.47
My question is, now as 373 is out, do I need to upgrade to this or is it, if I understand correctly 372 without Wireless Quick Release FW as some fortunately got problem with this one?
I also have a CSW 2.0 is worth upgrading it to 373? my have the stable 311 or 328 fw installed, but is not in use right now.
Wheel Base DD2
Driver Version: 372
Base FW Version: 674
Motor FW Version: 40
Wireless Quick Release FW: 6
FanaLab Version: 1.47
Steering Wheel Model McLaren GT3 FW: 31
Steering Wheel Model Porche 918 RSR (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: F1 (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: BMW GT2 (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: R300 (Podium) FW: 3
Steering Wheel Model: Classic 2 with Xbox Universal Hub
When doing the motor calibration, the wheel shaft does not do one revolution clockwise, and then another counter clockwise as per the popup window when starting the calibration says.
What it does is 1.7 turns CW, stops, then does 1 full revolution CCW, then speeds up and does about half a turn in the same direction.
Is that normal?
If not, perhaps I post a video of whats going on with the calibration?
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
This is really interesting. I have a slight notchy/grainy feeling during slower, tight cornering which I don’t know if I’m imagining or not. I thought it was due to enabling “Dynamic FFB” in FanaLab but I haven’t really figured it out. This is for Assetto Corsa with recommended settings (so INT is at 6).
Is there a downside to erasing the motor calibration? This is for a DD2 on latest firmware.
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
no, there is no real downside. You MIGHT feel more cogging (because obviously the anti-cogging-filter is removed) but for me I dont feel any more cogging compared to having ACV calibrated.
Hi Just done the latest update to DD2 and Formula V2 rim. It all drives well and feels really good tested on 2 games ACC & Rf2 When switch on i can feel vibrations on the rim without being in any game it's as if the motor is running in the wheel base. Did not use to have this before update any body else have this or can suggest what should be done
Gap? You mean car ahead and car behind? Thats not supported by most games. For what is supported in what game please have a look at the included PDF file.
"this driver includes a new clubsport steering wheel formula v2 firmware"
I click okay screen on my DD1 goes black. V2 rim shows F. Nothing happens. I have ran driver repair already. Any help would be great. I manage to brick my wheel with every single driver update. It is pretty awesome.
because you cant solve it, its a non-supported ITM value. You can not fix what is not broken. And when the game does not output this data like Car Ahead and Car Behind in their Telemetry, then FanaLab - obviously - cant display anything in the ITM.
Therefore see the PDF which is inclöuded in the FanaLab download what ITM values are supported by what game and if there is a red X then this means the game doesnt send that particular ITM data in Tlemetry so its not compatible!
Coming from Beta Driver 361, i get spikes and jolts? all over the place especially when i attach my Nascar Wheel with the Universal Hub.
Besides it seems to not hold steady force in Ovals and my Wheel is fighting against me all the time. That was not the case with 361.
As i am using my V2 Wheel with Podium Paddles it is just the same, but not as bad as with Universal Hub. In this state i just cant drive. I have to work with interpolation and Inertia all the way up, to keep it a bit steady, but this feels bad and doesn't work that good. Tried with FanaLab and recommended Settings and own Setting. Without FanaLab it's the same. In Ovals when i stop at the inside of the track it gets a sudden jolt if this is the right word with a knock sound. It feels as soon as i turn like it gets the force and then didn't hold it steady but keeps ticking high and low.
I created a support ticket. Have installed this driver on 2 different PC's and neither will allow me to install the V2 Rim firmware. i guess for now trying to roll back firmware.
Comments
From which driver are you coming? Have you had Fanalab profiles which load automatically if you start a game? Did you check the new settings? Especially Interpolation can have a huge effect on a grainy feel in the wheel.
My testing was done in AMS2 and ACC, using settings I previously had when using V365. INT is at 2 and FEI at 70 for AMS2.
I then tested AMS2 with the recommended settings from FanaLab INT 2, FEI 100, Same result.
Raise INT to its default value of 6, then the sand should be gone.
I have tried the suggested settings from FanaLab for both AMS2 and ACC.
I tried using the settings directly added via the wheel, and also loaded from FanaLab, feels the same.
Both my old settings and the new suggested settings from FanaLab give the same sandy, grainy feeling.
I was previously on V365. Which aside from the odd jolt when driving and knock when shutting down, worked a dream.
And the Interpolation and FEI settings are the same as in previous driver versions? No older profiles are set as default profiles?
For some reason the suggested INT setting in FanaLab and on the forum seems to be 2 for both AMS2 and ACC.
Change it to 6 and see if that helps.
I simply put back the old Tuning Menu settings I had on previous version V365. Using the wheel, not FanaLab.
I have done some further testing.
I uninstalled the drivers and FanaLab, rebooted, re-installed drivers, rebooted, but decided to try without FanaLab, that that is currently NOT installed, updated firmware again, rebooted. Did motor calibration. But alas, same sand in motor feeling.
I have tried INT between 6 and 10, there is an improvement, but its still nothing like the smoothness of V365.
I tested on a few tracks and different cars in AMS2, some smooth ones like Interlagos, and others like Donington and Brands. Smoother tracks are definitely less sandy! But again, still not as smooth as V365.
Also, an observation to note, when no sim is running, if I turn the wheel, I can feel the sandy, notchy feeling all the time.
And one further observation, the sandy feeling is far more noticeable with the F1 2020 wheel attached, using the same Tuning Menu settings.
I would like to revert to V365 to do further testing.
I will say that this latest driver does feel as though there is more detail coming through the wheel. But I cant live with the sandy feeling!
Hi
I updated my brand new DD2 to 372 and Fanalab to 1.47 on the first day when 372 came out, same with several wheels, without any problems. I uninstalled old Driver and old Fanalab, rebooted, installed 372, rebooted, installed Fanalab 1.47
My question is, now as 373 is out, do I need to upgrade to this or is it, if I understand correctly 372 without Wireless Quick Release FW as some fortunately got problem with this one?
I also have a CSW 2.0 is worth upgrading it to 373? my have the stable 311 or 328 fw installed, but is not in use right now.
Wheel Base DD2
Driver Version: 372
Base FW Version: 674
Motor FW Version: 40
Wireless Quick Release FW: 6
FanaLab Version: 1.47
Steering Wheel Model McLaren GT3 FW: 31
Steering Wheel Model Porche 918 RSR (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: F1 (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: BMW GT2 (ClubSport)
Steering Wheel Model: R300 (Podium) FW: 3
Steering Wheel Model: Classic 2 with Xbox Universal Hub
and one more Xbox Universal Hub
Thank you in advance
Best Regards
Stig
Really strange, INT at 6 is already too much filtering in some games for me. You never should be using INT at 10, that's insane.
Did you try to reflash the Motor FW? You said you already did the ACV, so there shouldn't be the problem...
Just unbelieveble!
The company is releasing a broken driver that makes my base unusable!
And within 3 days nobody answers my requests!
WHEN TO WAIT FOR A DECISION ?????????????? I HAVE YOUR TOP PRODUCT BY YOUR WINE BECAME A BRICK! IT'S OUTRAGEOUS!
Yes, its very strange!
I re flashed all of the firmwares from the Fanatec Properties window.
I am not sure what ACV is?
I will plug the wheel into another PC to see if the same feeling is present.
Another observation.
When doing the motor calibration, the wheel shaft does not do one revolution clockwise, and then another counter clockwise as per the popup window when starting the calibration says.
What it does is 1.7 turns CW, stops, then does 1 full revolution CCW, then speeds up and does about half a turn in the same direction.
Is that normal?
If not, perhaps I post a video of whats going on with the calibration?
thats normal, yes.
This is really interesting. I have a slight notchy/grainy feeling during slower, tight cornering which I don’t know if I’m imagining or not. I thought it was due to enabling “Dynamic FFB” in FanaLab but I haven’t really figured it out. This is for Assetto Corsa with recommended settings (so INT is at 6).
Is there a downside to erasing the motor calibration? This is for a DD2 on latest firmware.
no, there is no real downside. You MIGHT feel more cogging (because obviously the anti-cogging-filter is removed) but for me I dont feel any more cogging compared to having ACV calibrated.
Thanks. What does ACV stand for?
Anti Cogging Version
FAKE
Hi Just done the latest update to DD2 and Formula V2 rim. It all drives well and feels really good tested on 2 games ACC & Rf2 When switch on i can feel vibrations on the rim without being in any game it's as if the motor is running in the wheel base. Did not use to have this before update any body else have this or can suggest what should be done
Hey guys, one question..
I install the new fanalab & fanatec driver but in the ITM Display at the base does not shows the gap.
Does it work for you and how do I get it to work?
Gap? You mean car ahead and car behind? Thats not supported by most games. For what is supported in what game please have a look at the included PDF file.
"this driver includes a new clubsport steering wheel formula v2 firmware"
I click okay screen on my DD1 goes black. V2 rim shows F. Nothing happens. I have ran driver repair already. Any help would be great. I manage to brick my wheel with every single driver update. It is pretty awesome.
Ah okay. Thanks
uninstalled and reinstalled driver rebooted and no change. Will not install the V2 Rim firmware when i open the wheel property page.
it happens to me too, but their remedies are useless, on the pdf does not explain anything about it to solve the problem
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/33681#Comment_33681 Found thread with same issue no resolution stated.
because you cant solve it, its a non-supported ITM value. You can not fix what is not broken. And when the game does not output this data like Car Ahead and Car Behind in their Telemetry, then FanaLab - obviously - cant display anything in the ITM.
Therefore see the PDF which is inclöuded in the FanaLab download what ITM values are supported by what game and if there is a red X then this means the game doesnt send that particular ITM data in Tlemetry so its not compatible!
Coming from Beta Driver 361, i get spikes and jolts? all over the place especially when i attach my Nascar Wheel with the Universal Hub.
Besides it seems to not hold steady force in Ovals and my Wheel is fighting against me all the time. That was not the case with 361.
As i am using my V2 Wheel with Podium Paddles it is just the same, but not as bad as with Universal Hub. In this state i just cant drive. I have to work with interpolation and Inertia all the way up, to keep it a bit steady, but this feels bad and doesn't work that good. Tried with FanaLab and recommended Settings and own Setting. Without FanaLab it's the same. In Ovals when i stop at the inside of the track it gets a sudden jolt if this is the right word with a knock sound. It feels as soon as i turn like it gets the force and then didn't hold it steady but keeps ticking high and low.
I'm running a DD1 Base
Driver 372
Motor Firmware 40
Steering Wheel Firmware 35
I've reverted to V365.
It now feels how it was before.
So something in this release is causing this sandy, notchy feeling.
Would be happy to help try and diagnose the issue, failing that, I'll wait for the next release.
I created a support ticket. Have installed this driver on 2 different PC's and neither will allow me to install the V2 Rim firmware. i guess for now trying to roll back firmware.