Also here are my specs, if it helps. Base V2.5, wheel has the metal CSW quick connect, PC hardware Gigabyte z370 MOB, Intel 8700k CPU, 16 gig T-Force Nighthawk ram running Windows 10 64bit, storage Crucial 1T m.2. Don't know if any of these components or software has been reported to cause issues. The driver app downloaded is the 64bit version.
The New FW its on the Download page Driver 310 Beta , FW 446, motor FW 18 , MClaren Rin FW 23
Ok thanks, not sure what the issue is, maybe you Or someone here can give me some ideas. I have followed the setup video to the letter, I have deleted the Fanatec driver app reinstalled restarted and defraged my PC, I sent my first wheel back and received the replacement today and still having the same issue. When I try to update the base and then the wheel, the base updates fine with no issues, but when I go to update the wheel I get the dialog box that indicates the wheel firmware is out of date, but when I click to update the connect and flash box doesn't pop up. The wheel and base both go into up date mode but thats it.
Here's a video to help explain:
Does it work if you click 'No' and then go to the Update tab in the Fanatec Wheel Properties window and start the updater from there?
Do you have your wheel plugged into USB3.0 or USB2.0?
Are you able to try and update the rim firmware on the Win7 PC?
Thanks Remco, if I click no and try to update from within the wheel properties page I get the same results, I am think it's plugged into a 3.0 USB connection but will check tonight, only Pc's in the home are Win 10.
Connected base to a secondary PC, downloaded driver control panel app and still same issue, so it's ether the wheel or the wheel base, but it not a PC issue. This now is effecting my racing. Attempted to run with my league tonight and wheel wouldn't steer right, I could turn the wheel but is like it wouldn't register a turn and then all of a sudden it would. Really has me bummed with no one even Fanatec being able to correct this.
I have the McLaren GT3 wheel + CSL Elite base + V3 Inverted pedals. I currently have the pedals and base both hooked up via USB. Is there a way to be able to use the dual clutch on the GT3 wheel *AND* use the clutch on the V3i pedals at the same time? (use the dual clutch for race start and use the pedal clutch for the rest of the race).
I'm guessing I could do that if I hook the pedals to the CSL Elite base, but I would rather have both of them hooked up using USB connections.
Also the dual clutch rocks. In my first race using it, I jumped 5 spots going into T1. Unfortunately I bumped the one guy going into T1 (I was third car on the left at the turn).
Connected base to a secondary PC, downloaded driver control panel app and still same issue, so it's ether the wheel or the wheel base, but it not a PC issue. This now is effecting my racing. Attempted to run with my league tonight and wheel wouldn't steer right, I could turn the wheel but is like it wouldn't register a turn and then all of a sudden it would. Really has me bummed with no one even Fanatec being able to correct this.
I have had that same issue with the Porsche Rim... It would go in and out when making turns.... the issue was the small center screw in the Rim Wheel Hub was lose.... A few Turns to Snugg it tight Fixed the problem.... Check the Small Center Allen screws to make sure they are Snug and tight it cant hurt.
I actually ran into an issue now where the McLaren GT3 steering wheel display is no longer working on my CSL Elite PS4 base. It was working as expected initially after updating the firmware and doing some initial testing, but for some reason now the display no longer shows anything when powering everything on. And when testing the wheel functions all the buttons are extremely unresponsive. I submitted a support ticket. I am not sure what I could have done wrong, my wheel doesn't fall into the prototype serial numbers or anything like that and I definitely followed the driver and firmware updates exactly as listed. Awaiting a response from Fanatec. I have tried reinstalling driver on PC and reflashing the base and the wheel but no luck so far.
Any ideas? Base still works completely fine with normal CSL Elite PS4 wheel on the latest firmware.
Any updates on this? Has been a day or so and haven't heard anything back yet. Just looking forward to trying the new wheel and haven't been able to give it a go yet due to this issue.
Support did contact me and are now working on getting me a replacement. Thanks!
Just wanted to say I got my replacement and everything is working as expected.
Connected base to a secondary PC, downloaded driver control panel app and still same issue, so it's ether the wheel or the wheel base, but it not a PC issue. This now is effecting my racing. Attempted to run with my league tonight and wheel wouldn't steer right, I could turn the wheel but is like it wouldn't register a turn and then all of a sudden it would. Really has me bummed with no one even Fanatec being able to correct this.
I have had that same issue with the Porsche Rim... It would go in and out when making turns.... the issue was the small center screw in the Rim Wheel Hub was lose.... A few Turns to Snugg it tight Fixed the problem.... Check the Small Center Allen screws to make sure they are Snug and tight it cant hurt.
Thanks Lorrell, I did tighten the center and surrounding screws but still having the same issue, starting to think this is caused by the wheel base, it has been making an unusual clicking sound when turning it to the right under f2f load. I was trying to wait till the DD wheel came out before sending it in for service but I think now is the time.
Thanks Lorrell, I did tighten the center and surrounding screws but still having the same issue, starting to think this is caused by the wheel base, it has been making an unusual clicking sound when turning it to the right under f2f load. I was trying to wait till the DD wheel came out before sending it in for service but I think now is the time.
I think I experience the same metal click sound when turning under pressure. Have you tried to decrease spring force in the wheel menu to 70 (I had it on 100). Not sure if that is the right solution but it seems it worked for me.
I'm glad to have the new wheel and am enjoying it, but are we not talking about the Podium base anymore? That was originally supposed to be a like now product based on last year's expo introduction, but crickets......
I am invested in Fanatec wheels and would like a DD base to go along with them. I know I can just shut up and buy the OSW and add the base side Fanatec converter, but I thought we were close on the Podium product. I've been checking Facebook as well, but maybe I missed an announcement???
I'm glad to have the new wheel and am enjoying it, but are we not talking about the Podium base anymore? That was originally supposed to be a like now product based on last year's expo introduction, but crickets......
I am invested in Fanatec wheels and would like a DD base to go along with them. I know I can just shut up and buy the OSW and add the base side Fanatec converter, but I thought we were close on the Podium product. I've been checking Facebook as well, but maybe I missed an announcement???
Same. I've been holding off on a DD purchase for a year now, waiting on Fanatec. The lack of information is what's making me consider other options. I wanted to keep my existing rim set and was curious to see what new rims were coming in the Podium series. But I can't wait forever. An update would be much appreciated.
Nothing substantial since this post. We are all anxiously awaiting any sort of update from Thomas. The post suggests a possible summer release, but I suspect we would have heard more by now if that were likely. I want my new toy soon, but appreciate the importance of getting all the details right. That's what it takes to launch a superior product.
Joseph GossenMember, Moderator, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Where did you get those Red, Orange and Grey buttons on your GT3 wheel?
Remove the button caps et voila
Ahh very nice touch!
Yes looks more authentic. Just wish the buttons didn’t rattle so much.
Admiring my new GT3 wheel. I don't have a wheel base yet, but by the end of Summer in Europe, I will hopefully have a shiny new Direct Drive Podium and I can retire the old Logitech G27. The wheel looks great!
Joseph GossenMember, Moderator, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
The buttons don't rattle at all. You probably just left the fixing screw in the back of the base?
No it’s actually those face buttons rattling when hitting bumps or riding over curves. I removed the screw from the compartment day one. You can see they have quite a bit of play.
I wish Fanatec shared with us the approximate pricing bracket for the new Podium series. That way I could put the trigger on the ClubSport base already. But maybe the lower torqued Podium base will be priced around the CSW 2.5? That would be awesome
I wish Fanatec shared with us the approximate pricing bracket for the new Podium series. That way I could put the trigger on the ClubSport base already. But maybe the lower torqued Podium base will be priced around the CSW 2.5? That would be awesome
We will continue to sell the Clubsport wheel base V2.5 so you can expect that there will be a significant difference to the DD in terms of pricing and features.
I wish Fanatec shared with us the approximate pricing bracket for the new Podium series. That way I could put the trigger on the ClubSport base already. But maybe the lower torqued Podium base will be priced around the CSW 2.5? That would be awesome
We will continue to sell the Clubsport wheel base V2.5 so you can expect that there will be a significant difference to the DD in terms of pricing and features.
Thank You for such a quick reply Thomas. So I assume the DD podium bases will be at least couple of hundred euros more expensive that CSW 2.5 so that leaves with one choice for now I can't wait to see the Podium Series Wheels though! Cheers!
I have the V2, its awesome, but for me to upgrade to your ridiculous priced DD is insane.I know you need to charge more as its DD, but come on, $2500.00 for the DD2, its the most ridiculous price I've ever seen for a DD, do you guys actually want to sell a lot of them or only a handful, because with those prices, you wont sell what you think you will, sim racers out there are not as stupid as you think over there in corporate world, I will wait until you guys come back down to planet earth with reasonable pricing, not this Ludacris pricing you have now.
Here is yet again someone else having issues with the GT3 wheel buttons randomly not working. I have RMA'ed mine, getting the replacement today actually. I know someone else who has also RMA'ed theirs and the replacement was doing the same thing! You guys need to stop sending out replacements as it's just costing you money and more RMA's. Find the problem, fix it and save yourself money and your clients headaches! You sending out replacements that doesn't have the issue actually fixed is just bad PR for you.
I'm very certain you will hear from me too because I think the issue is firmware related not the hardware. I will post back here when my replaced wheel starting doing it again to confirm this.
Here is a streamer who had the issue entering the pits! This is the third person I know first hand having the issue.
Comments
I have the McLaren GT3 wheel + CSL Elite base + V3 Inverted pedals. I currently have the pedals and base both hooked up via USB. Is there a way to be able to use the dual clutch on the GT3 wheel *AND* use the clutch on the V3i pedals at the same time? (use the dual clutch for race start and use the pedal clutch for the rest of the race).
I'm guessing I could do that if I hook the pedals to the CSL Elite base, but I would rather have both of them hooked up using USB connections.
Also the dual clutch rocks. In my first race using it, I jumped 5 spots going into T1. Unfortunately I bumped the one guy going into T1 (I was third car on the left at the turn).
Remove the button caps et voila
Remove the button caps et voila
Yes looks more authentic. Just wish the buttons didn’t rattle so much.
No it’s actually those face buttons rattling when hitting bumps or riding over curves. I removed the screw from the compartment day one. You can see they have quite a bit of play.
Its driving me crazy.