Like I said - fresh windows install was literally the only thing I could do to get it working again.
done about 5hours on the drivers now though and have to say it feels great to me. Best so far, easy. Only issue is getting jolts when podium screen is on anything but the home screen. I left it in the tuning menu a couple of times and would then also get a couple of random jolts. This doesn’t bother me as I race in VR anyway and don’t use any of the data screens. So it’s only if I accidentally leave it in the tuning menu. But clearly needs fixing ASAP. still get little knock when powering off the base... as long as fanatec are 100% that this is ok again I don’t mind but if it’s an easy fix then obviously that needs doing ASAP too
I have also been using fanalabs 1.24 but find it does crash out ALOT and has to be reloaded.
I have been someone plagued with formula v2 rim freezes for months and months. A beta firmware fix for this has been given me and actually looks very promising. However more testing needed. By far this is the most important issue for them. It’s more and more common and RMAs for this will start building up - I have an exchange Rma already approved for a new podium base to fix this, but have not been able to ship for last two months due to lockdown rules In South Africa. I’m convinced it can be fixed with firmware which would be better for everyone.
Tried updating from Firmware V356 to V361 (V365) not a good idea..!!
My info
Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD2 KL25900472
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): McLaren GT3 QM10804409 and Porsche 911 GT3 WD31900942 SR31901094 UJ38900243
Driver Version: 365
Base FW Version: 372
Wheel FW Version: 2
FanaLab Version: 1,24
The Maclaren GT3 rim does not update the firmware, it is listed as a Formula V2 in the updater software. The 911 GT3 after updating the button Box module stop working.
sadly I must add myself to the list of users which are suffering from random freezes.
This is the first time it happens to me and it has been using this latest firmware.
the positive? This new firmware feels amazing so far, but if it provoques the base to randomly shutdown not quite sure I will stick with it.
Anything I could do to prevent this to happen?
I was lucky enough to have the streaming recording. Sadly one of the cameras overheated and could not record the wheel directly but with the one which was pointing at me it is enough to see that the wheel stopped working.
It's not a great feeling driving knowing the race could end any second because of random wheel death. Probably taking out one or two other cars as well... to whom you have to explain yourself.
That's why i changed to a dual boot install for gaming and working.
I had a problem with USB related stutters in DR2 and this stutters reappeared after I installed my printer driver. So my decision was two installs one only for gaming and another for all things.
After a lot of testing I found another problem with the BIOS of my MB, it has in auto AI mode slightly overclocked the CPU to much. I could see this only with Prime95 and the test with 8k FFT and a lot of RAM included in the test run.
3rd step was to connect the Podium base and the HE pedals to the 2 USB ports on the MB.
4th step was to ground the Podium wheel base because the WB is not grounded with the power supply. I had a lot of trouble with my Valve Index which are now better. I think the shielding of the Podium wheel base is too weak.
So now all games including DR2 without stutter and a lot less USB related stuff in Windows. The update to 365 incl. wheel base and BME FW updates without problems. Also with 356 I had no jolts (WB at the Fanatec logo screen) beside RaceRoom where I had additionally to reduce FEI to 90.
CSWB 2.5 with UH, (not XBox) V3 pedals, SQ shifterv1.5 all connected to wheel base, and Windows 10 PC.
All buttons work on UH as should be no issues at all so far since driver v363 great FFB best ever thank you :)
Just the one issue I do have is: When testing in the wheels Properties Page the Rumble for Brake and Throttle both are NOT working....Apart from that nothing else to report :)
After updating the Driver and Base Firmware several issues arose:
Upon base power cycle the OLED screen scrambles the Fanatec Logo after the usual lock-to-lock rotation.
1/3 times after base power cycle as above the wheel buttons will be unresponsive and the Wheel will show as a CSL Elite in the wheel properties. Once all the indicators for button presses were flashing wildly on all the buttons as if they were being pressed super rapidly. However, when it was detected correctly w/ the Formula v2 rim, I didn't have any problems in the wheel property screen.
Once, upon base power cycle the wheel began spinning extremely fast from one stop to the other until powered off.
Brake Force mode no longer displayed LEDs during adjustment in the tuning menu
I've since downgraded base FW back to 664 and wheel firmware to 28. Problems have gone away. Have reloaded just the new driver v635 and Fanalab 1.23 to see if any additional issues crop up with just the driver change and no updates to FW.
Since my last post I have been thinking about what might have caused my base to freeze.
As I explained, one of my cameras froze for exceeding the operating temperature (Sony mirrorless is quite common in older models).
This indicates to me that the room temperature could have been higher than normal (I've never had my base freeze before in the middle of a race).
Could the base have exceeded the optimal operating temperature and been shut down to protect itself?
I have been watching the base temperatures every time I finish my sessions. I have noticed that with the latest versions of the firmware the temperatures are higher than at the beginning.
Is there a logging system that I can check and send to Fanatec as feedback?
I will keep diggin about this matter and will try to report as much as possible.
There Seems to be two types of freezing issue then...
One like Miguel above that freezes the whole base.
And seconds is a long standing issue that freezes ONLY the V2 rim with APM module. This freezes all the buttons and shifters, and the LED's and OLED screen freeze in place, but the base and ffb carry's on working the same. If you Power Cycle the base or remove and replace the V2 rim it works again as normal. When using another rim like the BMW or Xbox hub it works perfectly always.
I have the latter issue along with a growing number of guys.
I have been using a test firmware for the V2 rim this weekend and it seems to have fixed the problem.. I have not done enough hours to confirm 100% though, I will continue to drive the V2 this week to check it out. but a very promising start. Previously I could not use the V2 rim for more than 20 minutes without a freeze, and often within only a couple of laps.
thanks Marcel..the fact of your return to communicate is important..now the 346 drivers are stable and it is a pleasure to use DD ... with a little patience we will have the new drivers ... important to know the situation as it evolves
I really don't get this UH button thing... Is it working or not in the end?
And, are we talking of buttons on the UH itself, or the ones deported on button boxes on the wheel (should be the same IMHO - but, who knows?)
I have same hardware as you, Stephen - what do you mean "(not XBox)"? That you are not running CSWB 2.5 in XBox mode, but PC (aka. red power LED instead of green)?
One could say I can try by myself, but having my first CSWB 2.5 fried out of the box with bad firmware flash (official, not beta ones), and overheating the 2nd (current) one with beta drivers (the ones before 361) because fans were not running, I prefer staying on the safe side.
BTW, can you confirm that fans are running OK on CSWB 2.5 with this 365 driver?
I upgraded from 346 to 365 on the weekend and touchwood haven't had any major issues with anything yet. Have been impressed with the update and I did have a few issues when on 346.
I update all firmwares and am on a DD1 and formula V2 rim.
The only quirks I have come across is the power off clunk and the temp of the motor is up about 5°c but I guess that is expected with the higher MHz calculations going on.
everyday i come home i go down stairs and hope i have been burglarized so i can get rid of this piece of Sheet!
Here's some stuff, its 18mos late, it feels good.
causes problems.......
Woah. heres some new stuff again, no we cant figure out the jolts. look at these new dd screens though, but don't use them if unless u want more jolts.......You should keep it on the default screen ,unless u want your wrist broken by more jolts...
Come on already?
I'll report issues correctly when fanatec starts paying Me Too! Because I've been doing this for 2 years now for a $1600 base . B.s. I feel like I work for fanatec for free. like Amazon sells tablets for $40(60% of a tabA) that dont work, why cant we get a rebate or something.
a free podium hub or safety button combo for launch users would go a long way as to making this experience suck a lil less, a lot more then another rehash of a cheap f1 wheel. Probably save some thumbs?
Bottom line is this is out of hand, this is a dangerous situation and ill probably have to use my t150, which works everytime and hits the gears when i tell it too.
p.s. negative on a podium hub, barely work anyway, the clubsport f1 rim as cheap as it feel felt more immersive than the 911bme combo.
And dont forget to click the fanatec affiliate link and throw us a follow!.....
with 356 i haven't had any problem. What happened one time, was during a game i´ve got my screen all black, but could listen the sound of game still running, and because i cant see, the car crashed and the wheel reacted.
But i assume this has nothing to do with drivers but with some bad behavior from game or windows.
Hello Christian...The very first UH's was not (I believe) XBox compatible, the funky switch just had the Fanatec "F" logo which I have, they were slightly cheaper to buy too, but then, they just kinda went off the Fanatec website and were replaced with the more expensive UH's that had the XBox Logo on the funky switch? All the buttons are the same and you can add little button boxes just the same too, I bought Three of these UH's and chance them out to differant wheels...I have tried all three UH's and all the buttons on the three (Including all the small button boxes) work as they were intened to...Sorry your having trouble, but it must have been seen as an issue, as the post by Maurice Boschen two post above mine say's "It will be fixed in the next public release" :) hope the info helps ;)
Comments
Hi Daniel,
I would try uninstall Fanatec software, restart, and run the software installation As Administrator.
Good luck,
G
Like I said - fresh windows install was literally the only thing I could do to get it working again.
done about 5hours on the drivers now though and have to say it feels great to me. Best so far, easy. Only issue is getting jolts when podium screen is on anything but the home screen. I left it in the tuning menu a couple of times and would then also get a couple of random jolts. This doesn’t bother me as I race in VR anyway and don’t use any of the data screens. So it’s only if I accidentally leave it in the tuning menu. But clearly needs fixing ASAP. still get little knock when powering off the base... as long as fanatec are 100% that this is ok again I don’t mind but if it’s an easy fix then obviously that needs doing ASAP too
I have also been using fanalabs 1.24 but find it does crash out ALOT and has to be reloaded.
I have been someone plagued with formula v2 rim freezes for months and months. A beta firmware fix for this has been given me and actually looks very promising. However more testing needed. By far this is the most important issue for them. It’s more and more common and RMAs for this will start building up - I have an exchange Rma already approved for a new podium base to fix this, but have not been able to ship for last two months due to lockdown rules In South Africa. I’m convinced it can be fixed with firmware which would be better for everyone.
Hello,
Tried updating from Firmware V356 to V361 (V365) not a good idea..!!
My info
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): McLaren GT3 QM10804409 and Porsche 911 GT3 WD31900942 SR31901094 UJ38900243
The Maclaren GT3 rim does not update the firmware, it is listed as a Formula V2 in the updater software. The 911 GT3 after updating the button Box module stop working.
What to due ?
Br Martin
I try and do anything and I just get a flashing power light on my emergency stop button...
do a power cycle and thankful it comes back up... but it still says I have a driver update in the Fanatec control panel...
Shame it's so micky mouse to get going...
Will wait for next version I guess...
Hi.
I am also experiencing this freezing disorder on my Formula V2 rim.
Could you send me this beta firmware fix that was sent to you?
Thank you.
Hi everyone,
sadly I must add myself to the list of users which are suffering from random freezes.
This is the first time it happens to me and it has been using this latest firmware.
the positive? This new firmware feels amazing so far, but if it provoques the base to randomly shutdown not quite sure I will stick with it.
Anything I could do to prevent this to happen?
I was lucky enough to have the streaming recording. Sadly one of the cameras overheated and could not record the wheel directly but with the one which was pointing at me it is enough to see that the wheel stopped working.
Link to the exact moment:
EDIT: Timestamp = 51:03
Hope this message reach Fanatec technical support as well as client support and we could find a solution.
Best,
Miguel / Nikos
We all hope that this will be resolved as soon as possible, we are all very upset.
Please a guideline, just download this file?
Does it automatically install on the steering wheel?
Installed 365 and updated DD1 base firmware.
Xbox Universal Hub has non functioning buttons.
Formula Carbon works perfectly.
I have reverted to PC:356 WBF:670 WBMF:38 to actually have usable buttons on the Xbox universal hub.
Issues occurred when
PC driver: 365
Wheel Base Firmware: 672
Wheel Base Motor Firmware: 38
Tried several times to install from PC driver 356 also reverted to 346 and tried updating from there but no joy
I'm staying on 356 just way too many problems at the moment bace freezing and disconnecting random jolts it's really bad this one
I know probably take them 3 months to sort just a couple of issues but
When fanatec do sort out some of the issues with the driver will it still be named 365 or do they always rename after every change made to the driver?
I had the same problems.
Try it: 👇️
PC driver: 365
Wheel Base Firmware: 670
Wheel Base Motor Firmware: 38
Sad indeed...
Experienced it twice on the new firmware. :-(
It's not a great feeling driving knowing the race could end any second because of random wheel death. Probably taking out one or two other cars as well... to whom you have to explain yourself.
That's why i changed to a dual boot install for gaming and working.
I had a problem with USB related stutters in DR2 and this stutters reappeared after I installed my printer driver. So my decision was two installs one only for gaming and another for all things.
After a lot of testing I found another problem with the BIOS of my MB, it has in auto AI mode slightly overclocked the CPU to much. I could see this only with Prime95 and the test with 8k FFT and a lot of RAM included in the test run.
3rd step was to connect the Podium base and the HE pedals to the 2 USB ports on the MB.
4th step was to ground the Podium wheel base because the WB is not grounded with the power supply. I had a lot of trouble with my Valve Index which are now better. I think the shielding of the Podium wheel base is too weak.
So now all games including DR2 without stutter and a lot less USB related stuff in Windows. The update to 365 incl. wheel base and BME FW updates without problems. Also with 356 I had no jolts (WB at the Fanatec logo screen) beside RaceRoom where I had additionally to reduce FEI to 90.
ClubSport Universal Hub issues:
When this will be fixed?
with the next public firmware release.
Great!!!
Congratulations.
CSWB 2.5 with UH, (not XBox) V3 pedals, SQ shifterv1.5 all connected to wheel base, and Windows 10 PC.
All buttons work on UH as should be no issues at all so far since driver v363 great FFB best ever thank you :)
Just the one issue I do have is: When testing in the wheels Properties Page the Rumble for Brake and Throttle both are NOT working....Apart from that nothing else to report :)
Steve
Installed as directed. Required repair step. Improvement. No steps backward for wheel or base.
Wheel base : CSW 2.5
Steering Wheel Model: Formula V2
Driver Version : 365
Base FW Version: 672
Base Motor FW Version: 20
Steering Wheel Firmware: 34
After updating the Driver and Base Firmware several issues arose:
I've since downgraded base FW back to 664 and wheel firmware to 28. Problems have gone away. Have reloaded just the new driver v635 and Fanalab 1.23 to see if any additional issues crop up with just the driver change and no updates to FW.
Good morning, folks,
Since my last post I have been thinking about what might have caused my base to freeze.
As I explained, one of my cameras froze for exceeding the operating temperature (Sony mirrorless is quite common in older models).
This indicates to me that the room temperature could have been higher than normal (I've never had my base freeze before in the middle of a race).
Could the base have exceeded the optimal operating temperature and been shut down to protect itself?
I have been watching the base temperatures every time I finish my sessions. I have noticed that with the latest versions of the firmware the temperatures are higher than at the beginning.
Is there a logging system that I can check and send to Fanatec as feedback?
I will keep diggin about this matter and will try to report as much as possible.
Best,
Miguel / Nikos
There Seems to be two types of freezing issue then...
One like Miguel above that freezes the whole base.
And seconds is a long standing issue that freezes ONLY the V2 rim with APM module. This freezes all the buttons and shifters, and the LED's and OLED screen freeze in place, but the base and ffb carry's on working the same. If you Power Cycle the base or remove and replace the V2 rim it works again as normal. When using another rim like the BMW or Xbox hub it works perfectly always.
I have the latter issue along with a growing number of guys.
I have been using a test firmware for the V2 rim this weekend and it seems to have fixed the problem.. I have not done enough hours to confirm 100% though, I will continue to drive the V2 this week to check it out. but a very promising start. Previously I could not use the V2 rim for more than 20 minutes without a freeze, and often within only a couple of laps.
Which motor firmware do you use? Thanks!
I really don't get this UH button thing... Is it working or not in the end?
And, are we talking of buttons on the UH itself, or the ones deported on button boxes on the wheel (should be the same IMHO - but, who knows?)
I have same hardware as you, Stephen - what do you mean "(not XBox)"? That you are not running CSWB 2.5 in XBox mode, but PC (aka. red power LED instead of green)?
One could say I can try by myself, but having my first CSWB 2.5 fried out of the box with bad firmware flash (official, not beta ones), and overheating the 2nd (current) one with beta drivers (the ones before 361) because fans were not running, I prefer staying on the safe side.
BTW, can you confirm that fans are running OK on CSWB 2.5 with this 365 driver?
I upgraded from 346 to 365 on the weekend and touchwood haven't had any major issues with anything yet. Have been impressed with the update and I did have a few issues when on 346.
I update all firmwares and am on a DD1 and formula V2 rim.
The only quirks I have come across is the power off clunk and the temp of the motor is up about 5°c but I guess that is expected with the higher MHz calculations going on.
all new drivers and firmware Ps4 dd1 F1 rim or phub 911bme combo, this happens. Fully functional, plug and play u say? like a leaky dam
plug one hole ,another pops!
everyday i come home i go down stairs and hope i have been burglarized so i can get rid of this piece of Sheet!
Here's some stuff, its 18mos late, it feels good.
causes problems.......
Woah. heres some new stuff again, no we cant figure out the jolts. look at these new dd screens though, but don't use them if unless u want more jolts.......You should keep it on the default screen ,unless u want your wrist broken by more jolts...
Come on already?
I'll report issues correctly when fanatec starts paying Me Too! Because I've been doing this for 2 years now for a $1600 base . B.s. I feel like I work for fanatec for free. like Amazon sells tablets for $40(60% of a tabA) that dont work, why cant we get a rebate or something.
a free podium hub or safety button combo for launch users would go a long way as to making this experience suck a lil less, a lot more then another rehash of a cheap f1 wheel. Probably save some thumbs?
Bottom line is this is out of hand, this is a dangerous situation and ill probably have to use my t150, which works everytime and hits the gears when i tell it too.
p.s. negative on a podium hub, barely work anyway, the clubsport f1 rim as cheap as it feel felt more immersive than the 911bme combo.
And dont forget to click the fanatec affiliate link and throw us a follow!.....
🙉🙈🙊🤪🤦♂️🤷♂️
I haven't had freez with the 356 driver with my DD1/PS4 yet. This morning with the 365 driver 2x in a row within 2 hours.
pCARS2 in CSV2.5 Comp. mode with podium Porsche 911 RIM
with 356 i haven't had any problem. What happened one time, was during a game i´ve got my screen all black, but could listen the sound of game still running, and because i cant see, the car crashed and the wheel reacted.
But i assume this has nothing to do with drivers but with some bad behavior from game or windows.
Hello Christian...The very first UH's was not (I believe) XBox compatible, the funky switch just had the Fanatec "F" logo which I have, they were slightly cheaper to buy too, but then, they just kinda went off the Fanatec website and were replaced with the more expensive UH's that had the XBox Logo on the funky switch? All the buttons are the same and you can add little button boxes just the same too, I bought Three of these UH's and chance them out to differant wheels...I have tried all three UH's and all the buttons on the three (Including all the small button boxes) work as they were intened to...Sorry your having trouble, but it must have been seen as an issue, as the post by Maurice Boschen two post above mine say's "It will be fixed in the next public release" :) hope the info helps ;)
Steve