If you have a wheel attached that you had before you can leave it attached during the firmware updates.
Its just when you bought a new steering wheel for example the GT3-R and you attach it to the CSW V2.5 while that is still on the old firmware the base might be confused because it doesn't know the new wheel and acts strange. So when buying a new wheel its always best to update the base firmware first before attaching the new wheel. Like said if its an old wheel you had before you can leave it on.
Thanks for the feedback, the INT setting is relatively high on purpose to give the most issue free experience without unwanted noise when driving with games that might not have the best FFB. Like the others said, feel free to reduce this setting and you can feel significantly more feedback if the game has good FFB
In case this happens again some time, its better to just run the repair function of the driver installer as mentioned in the instructions and known issues instead of re-installing which might just repeat the problem. We will hopefully fix this for the future.
The default settings might be lacking some detail because they are on the safe side to work with even the worst game FFB.
To get a more direct feeling, reduce INT to your liking, for iRacing an INT setting of 3 should work well. You should also reduce NDP to 15 or 20.
If you are unsure about general settings you can either look after the recommended ones in this forum or install FanaLab which has the recommended settings included.
After updating to the latest driver with my Clubsport V2.5 the fans go at full speed after a few minutes of driving. Is it normal? You can find attached in the image all the drivers. I'm worried that the base motor is forcing too much and it can brake.
Ah thank you. It's just +4 and +5 there were removed. Just shaving some numbers and nothing more. I feel dumb. :D Have a great day.
Edit: I know why people thinking you can just update the older driver by just installing the new one. Lots of programs can just update easily by installing a new version. Take Nvidia as example. Since a year or 2 I do not have to remove and DDU my Nvidia-drivers. I can easily just run a newer version of Nvidia and it will 'copy' over the older one. Ofcourse I've used DDU sometimes. With update-programs like Patchmypc and Sumo updating programs have been easier than ever. They update your programs with a click / automatically, and even remember your settings. Easy as it is.
I was racing quite a bit on the 365 driver and immediately noticed a positive difference on 372. It seems the FFB no longer 'overshoots' and feels more precise. Please keep making improvements in this direction. I am hoping that one day I can crank up the power a bit more without fear of oscillations.
On a side note, I noticed that on all drivers, increasing interpolation (INT) also increases the likelihood of oscillations, with all other settings remaining the same.
Ran the update last night and had no issues on my dd1, phub and pbme. Will update the v2 wheel next time I use it but so far, so good. Only played iRacing but everything felt good there. Big thanks to everyone who worked on this release!
FWIW, I did not uninstall the old driver first but that would've been one of the first things I tried if it didn't go smoothly.
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Yes, its correct that a higher Interpolation setting means also more oscillations (same as reducing FEI btw).
You might want to add some damping to the steering wheel rather than decreasing FEI too much. You'll loose too much detail if you reduce FEI. Best way is to find a sweetspot between a low INT setting, FEI not loweer than 80 and maybe add some damping or friction, but not by much.
Yes the best settings against oscillations is to use low INT, 100 FEI and add some NDP. Also keep DPR at 100 because ACC for example has a great dynamic damper feature adding realism and preventing oscillations at the same time. AC also has an option but its hidden in an ini file and is called gyro
Which LED files do you mean? You need to install driver 372, flash all firmwares and install Fanalab 1.47. Then set all LED colors up in Fanalab and off you go.
Was previously on PC Driver: 365, Wheel Base Firmware 672, and Wheel Base Motor Firmware 22. I uninstalled 365, restarted PC, and installed PC Driver 372. I'm able to Update Wheel Base Firmware but now I no longer have an option to Update Wheel Base Motor Firmware. I'm using a CSL Elite 1.1, with Windows 10 Update 2004 along with v3 pedals, and ClubSport Steering Wheel F1 Esports.
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
There is no newer motor firmware included, that's why you can't update... ^^
There should be the button to update the Motor FW anyway. Can you try the repair function of the driver please or take a closer look, if maybe two update options are overlapping by chance?
Comments
Ah then you mean 1.24 and not 1.42.
But yeah also that profiles should convert but not to 100%.
Steering Wheel Vibrations are converted to be all enabled even if you had them set to disabled in the old vversion.
If you have a wheel attached that you had before you can leave it attached during the firmware updates.
Its just when you bought a new steering wheel for example the GT3-R and you attach it to the CSW V2.5 while that is still on the old firmware the base might be confused because it doesn't know the new wheel and acts strange. So when buying a new wheel its always best to update the base firmware first before attaching the new wheel. Like said if its an old wheel you had before you can leave it on.
Thanks for the feedback, the INT setting is relatively high on purpose to give the most issue free experience without unwanted noise when driving with games that might not have the best FFB. Like the others said, feel free to reduce this setting and you can feel significantly more feedback if the game has good FFB
In case this happens again some time, its better to just run the repair function of the driver installer as mentioned in the instructions and known issues instead of re-installing which might just repeat the problem. We will hopefully fix this for the future.
Ahhh yep sry typo, I'll fix the original post, thanks again.
The default settings might be lacking some detail because they are on the safe side to work with even the worst game FFB.
To get a more direct feeling, reduce INT to your liking, for iRacing an INT setting of 3 should work well. You should also reduce NDP to 15 or 20.
If you are unsure about general settings you can either look after the recommended ones in this forum or install FanaLab which has the recommended settings included.
After updating to the latest driver with my Clubsport V2.5 the fans go at full speed after a few minutes of driving. Is it normal? You can find attached in the image all the drivers. I'm worried that the base motor is forcing too much and it can brake.
Did you also reconnect the USB cable maybe also to a different port yet?
To the ones which had
A: The device wasn't shown in the list anymore
B: The property page didn't open
C: Any similar variant of the issue
Please write me a personal message describing the issue, what you've tried and uploading the log files as a .zip.
The log files are located in C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs
Ah thank you. It's just +4 and +5 there were removed. Just shaving some numbers and nothing more. I feel dumb. :D Have a great day.
Edit: I know why people thinking you can just update the older driver by just installing the new one. Lots of programs can just update easily by installing a new version. Take Nvidia as example. Since a year or 2 I do not have to remove and DDU my Nvidia-drivers. I can easily just run a newer version of Nvidia and it will 'copy' over the older one. Ofcourse I've used DDU sometimes. With update-programs like Patchmypc and Sumo updating programs have been easier than ever. They update your programs with a click / automatically, and even remember your settings. Easy as it is.
I was racing quite a bit on the 365 driver and immediately noticed a positive difference on 372. It seems the FFB no longer 'overshoots' and feels more precise. Please keep making improvements in this direction. I am hoping that one day I can crank up the power a bit more without fear of oscillations.
On a side note, I noticed that on all drivers, increasing interpolation (INT) also increases the likelihood of oscillations, with all other settings remaining the same.
Ran the update last night and had no issues on my dd1, phub and pbme. Will update the v2 wheel next time I use it but so far, so good. Only played iRacing but everything felt good there. Big thanks to everyone who worked on this release!
FWIW, I did not uninstall the old driver first but that would've been one of the first things I tried if it didn't go smoothly.
Yes, its correct that a higher Interpolation setting means also more oscillations (same as reducing FEI btw).
Thanks for the confirmation. Just to be clear, are you saying to decrease FEI to also decreases chance of oscillations?
My goal is to minimize oscillations as much as possible.
No, its the opposite. Reducing FEI or increasing INT can lead to more oscillations.
If you want as less likelihood of oscillations as possible, run a low INT setting with a high FEI setting.
You might want to add some damping to the steering wheel rather than decreasing FEI too much. You'll loose too much detail if you reduce FEI. Best way is to find a sweetspot between a low INT setting, FEI not loweer than 80 and maybe add some damping or friction, but not by much.
Yes the best settings against oscillations is to use low INT, 100 FEI and add some NDP. Also keep DPR at 100 because ACC for example has a great dynamic damper feature adding realism and preventing oscillations at the same time. AC also has an option but its hidden in an ini file and is called gyro
can someone tell me how too install the leds files for the new drivers and what they do ?
Which LED files do you mean? You need to install driver 372, flash all firmwares and install Fanalab 1.47. Then set all LED colors up in Fanalab and off you go.
Maurice Boschen had some files for the rev lights for different games ?
Ah you mean the profiles for Fanalab!
There you go: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/15205/fanalab-1-47-download-post-your-feedback-here/p1
Third post.
Trust me, I did it safely over v365 (which was clean) and so did a friend with a CSW 2.5.
I had major issues removing v365 and trying to install v372 (uninstall, reboot, install, reboot, start base) went mental.
I was fortunate but very upset at the wheelbases violent reaction to the new driver.
Ok trust you. I still do it otherwise and never had an issue that way and it’s still the best way to proper uninstall
Was previously on PC Driver: 365, Wheel Base Firmware 672, and Wheel Base Motor Firmware 22. I uninstalled 365, restarted PC, and installed PC Driver 372. I'm able to Update Wheel Base Firmware but now I no longer have an option to Update Wheel Base Motor Firmware. I'm using a CSL Elite 1.1, with Windows 10 Update 2004 along with v3 pedals, and ClubSport Steering Wheel F1 Esports.
There is no newer motor firmware included, that's why you can't update... ^^
Are you missing the button in the driver to update the Motor FW? Or did you think there was a new one included?
OK so it's normal for it to not even show the button in the Update section? Thanks!
There should be the button to update the Motor FW anyway. Can you try the repair function of the driver please or take a closer look, if maybe two update options are overlapping by chance?
DD1 here, v2 formula wheel and podium hub with endurance module. Excellent update, thanks!!!
Yes I'm missing the button