Ok... i'm kinda lost in this driver madness. Last week i got the Xbox competition pack, V2.5 wheelbase, CSL P1 wheel and CSL pedals. Today i ordered the Formula V2 wheel and i'f i'm correct that wheel is not supported by the current V328 driver that the V2.5 wheelbase has at the moment.
I see on the Formula V2 wheel the 336 beta however i see here that there is already a version 365...
So what should be the wisest decision, use 336 or just grab the latest 365 version? I'm running (yeah i know) everything on the Xbox at the moment (next upgrade should be a pc).
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
Thank. But it will probably help when the base sees the steering wheel? To make her see the steering wheel, I do the following: I completely remove the firmware, delete the device (base DD1) from usb, erase the log folder with log files. Then I restart my computer, install driver 346, it prompts me to update the Firmware, I agree and then the base disappears from the usb and goes into 10 Bootloader mode (pictured) and the Flash Firware button is not active (picture) !! The base power button starts blinking and everything else freezes. What to do?
Anyone has settings for firmware v365? I updated it and now it feel totally different, also the settings options are different now. Even when in long fast turns now the wheel making weird strong oscillations when touching curbs, like jting... anyone?
Podium DD1 with blue F1 wheel playing Gran Turismo
I noticed similar Fernando - The wheel feels different - for example Spring to center used to be quick for me, now it's speed seems dependent on overall FFB level.
Just found this thread, I'd like to +1 that I'm getting spikes of FFB and iRacing reporting me suddenly going full lock for 1 frame when I have the steering straight. This only happens rarely but it's a big issue when it does.
I spent 4 hours trying to get my Porsche Podium Wheel with BME working on a DD1 base. At first updating to v356 worked fine for a few days, there some occasional freezes but was working fine. But yesterday I upgraded to v365 and tried to launch ACC and the game didn't start. So I forced closed and went to the desktop, that's when constant freeze started. Just idling causes the wheel base to freeze with the Porsche Podium wheel attached. The only way not have the base crash is by disconnecting the Porsche wheel. So at this point it became usable. I tried to uninstall and reinstall v356 no luck, wheel base freezes constantly. I then flash the HUB and BME with the test firmware in page 20 and still wheel base just freezes after less than 10 minutes. At this point I've unplugged the wheel base power cable about 20 times and ready to give up since the wheel base just froze when turned on. My last resort was to downgrade to v346 and that's when the wheel base started working again. It's rock solid with v346, no clunk when turning the wheel base off or when in game. And the freezing stopped. I can only use my formula carbon to race. I spent $724 dollars on the Porsche wheel and it's useless. The firmware, fanalab and ITM are all Alpha stage at best. The hardware should not have been released until stable support software is ready for release. The podium hub and BME is just not ready for market without the proper software. Now Fanatec is asking these users that bought the expensive hardware to also be beta software testers makes me livid. We're talking about thousands of dollars. I started a return on my Porsche wheel but support has been very slow in getting back. Hopefully they'll get back to me before the 14 day return period is over. If anyone from Fanatec is listening please I could use some assistance.
Is there a way to uninstall the Enable_ITM.reg key? I don't trust it and probably causes stability issues.
i also had these lockups only solution was to remove the power supply, since bonding had no issues.
re kit chan issues, the reg file is quite benign, you can open the file in notepad
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Endor\PodiumSuite]
"ITM"=dword:00000001
as for your software issue, i have the same setup and had no issues, not helpful i know. only issue i had was i did not push the wheel fully onto the drive.
Thanks for the response. I'll try bonding the rig to ground and see if that fixes it. But it points to something about the new fw in 352+ that causes the freeze because the difference in 346 and beta drivers is working vs frozen DD1.
Hi Friends, I figured out the steering wheel, another incident got out)) Please tell me why I have the steering wheel upside down? attaching photo. How to return to normal?
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
You need to calibrate the center properly as described in the manual and Quick guide.
I have read the manual, but I cannot proceed to this procedure, as the flash firmware is not active!
In the photo I indicated this problem, where can I get the Hex Files?
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
edited July 2020
Which flash firmware is not active? The wheel is recognised so everything seems to be working fine, just the center calibration is off. No need for hex files.
All you have to do is physically entering the wheel, click the tuning menu button and then push down both joysticks at the same time, then the center is correct again.
Dont see any other issue within the two pictures (but maybe because the resolution is super low..)
I re-uploaded the photo, the train on the quick release is at the bottom, the rudder is upside down, when calibrating the rudder I do not have enough turnover to return the rudder to the correct position and I can play!
Maurice BöschenMember, CSL E RP1 PS4 beta tester, RMcL BT, CS SWFORM V2 Beta test, DD Beta Tester, PHub Beta Tester, P BME beta tester
edited July 2020
Well, as said, you need to calibrate the center new. That’s it. Then it will be centered correctly because it’s impossible to get it off-cantered because the Dd bases don’t have a mechanical endstop, all that matters is a proper center calibration, then you will have the same DoR to both sides.
So turn the wheel how it should be (straight and centered), click Tuning Menu button, push both Joysticks at the same time. That’s it.
1. the center of the motor is slightly offset from the center point by about 5-6 units, how to center the motor and bring it to 0?
2. After finishing playing and turning off the computer, you need to disconnect the steering wheel power supply from the network (where the green indicator is), but the fan is working there quietly, or does it not need to be disconnected from the network?
If you zoom into your picture you will notice that the left and right side of slider is exactly in the center and this is why it is showing -5 (it is like the steering wheel is centered a little to the left).
It is very minimal so it wont affect that much but then again try to find your straight position and press to re-center the wheel like Maurice explained above then it should show 0.
Comments
^Did you try change mode with those two red buttons like quick guide for Formula Carbon says?
i press triangle and select to change modes
Ok... i'm kinda lost in this driver madness. Last week i got the Xbox competition pack, V2.5 wheelbase, CSL P1 wheel and CSL pedals. Today i ordered the Formula V2 wheel and i'f i'm correct that wheel is not supported by the current V328 driver that the V2.5 wheelbase has at the moment.
I see on the Formula V2 wheel the 336 beta however i see here that there is already a version 365...
So what should be the wisest decision, use 336 or just grab the latest 365 version? I'm running (yeah i know) everything on the Xbox at the moment (next upgrade should be a pc).
Go with the driver 365 and included firmware 672.
Thank. But it will probably help when the base sees the steering wheel? To make her see the steering wheel, I do the following: I completely remove the firmware, delete the device (base DD1) from usb, erase the log folder with log files. Then I restart my computer, install driver 346, it prompts me to update the Firmware, I agree and then the base disappears from the usb and goes into 10 Bootloader mode (pictured) and the Flash Firware button is not active (picture) !! The base power button starts blinking and everything else freezes. What to do?
Anyone has settings for firmware v365? I updated it and now it feel totally different, also the settings options are different now. Even when in long fast turns now the wheel making weird strong oscillations when touching curbs, like jting... anyone?
Podium DD1 with blue F1 wheel playing Gran Turismo
I noticed similar Fernando - The wheel feels different - for example Spring to center used to be quick for me, now it's speed seems dependent on overall FFB level.
Sergey, from that screenshot, did you try clicking connect?
I believe I hit connect, then flash firmware
Just found this thread, I'd like to +1 that I'm getting spikes of FFB and iRacing reporting me suddenly going full lock for 1 frame when I have the steering straight. This only happens rarely but it's a big issue when it does.
This post deleted.
has anyone reported that the mouse cursor emulation speeds up movement if the wheel is moved?
I did not see it on the list of known issues.
Yes, known issue. Only affects BME though, other wheels should be fine.
I spent 4 hours trying to get my Porsche Podium Wheel with BME working on a DD1 base. At first updating to v356 worked fine for a few days, there some occasional freezes but was working fine. But yesterday I upgraded to v365 and tried to launch ACC and the game didn't start. So I forced closed and went to the desktop, that's when constant freeze started. Just idling causes the wheel base to freeze with the Porsche Podium wheel attached. The only way not have the base crash is by disconnecting the Porsche wheel. So at this point it became usable. I tried to uninstall and reinstall v356 no luck, wheel base freezes constantly. I then flash the HUB and BME with the test firmware in page 20 and still wheel base just freezes after less than 10 minutes. At this point I've unplugged the wheel base power cable about 20 times and ready to give up since the wheel base just froze when turned on. My last resort was to downgrade to v346 and that's when the wheel base started working again. It's rock solid with v346, no clunk when turning the wheel base off or when in game. And the freezing stopped. I can only use my formula carbon to race. I spent $724 dollars on the Porsche wheel and it's useless. The firmware, fanalab and ITM are all Alpha stage at best. The hardware should not have been released until stable support software is ready for release. The podium hub and BME is just not ready for market without the proper software. Now Fanatec is asking these users that bought the expensive hardware to also be beta software testers makes me livid. We're talking about thousands of dollars. I started a return on my Porsche wheel but support has been very slow in getting back. Hopefully they'll get back to me before the 14 day return period is over. If anyone from Fanatec is listening please I could use some assistance.
Is there a way to uninstall the Enable_ITM.reg key? I don't trust it and probably causes stability issues.
Hello all,
i am facing also freezes on my Podium.
only restart by cutting the Power via disconnecting the cable.
in my Last acc Race on pc After Qualifying and in 3 lap of the Race.
today my second Race in acc and again after Qualifying a freeze on my Podium.
i am using driver v365.
feeling very sad. 😰
Christian, Kit Chan,
check my post on bonding my rig to the PC https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/48324#Comment_48324
i also had these lockups only solution was to remove the power supply, since bonding had no issues.
re kit chan issues, the reg file is quite benign, you can open the file in notepad
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Endor\PodiumSuite]
"ITM"=dword:00000001
as for your software issue, i have the same setup and had no issues, not helpful i know. only issue i had was i did not push the wheel fully onto the drive.
ian
Ian,
Thanks for the response. I'll try bonding the rig to ground and see if that fixes it. But it points to something about the new fw in 352+ that causes the freeze because the difference in 346 and beta drivers is working vs frozen DD1.
Hi Friends, I figured out the steering wheel, another incident got out)) Please tell me why I have the steering wheel upside down? attaching photo. How to return to normal?
You need to calibrate the center properly as described in the manual and Quick guide.
I have read the manual, but I cannot proceed to this procedure, as the flash firmware is not active!
In the photo I indicated this problem, where can I get the Hex Files?
Which flash firmware is not active? The wheel is recognised so everything seems to be working fine, just the center calibration is off. No need for hex files.
All you have to do is physically entering the wheel, click the tuning menu button and then push down both joysticks at the same time, then the center is correct again.
Dont see any other issue within the two pictures (but maybe because the resolution is super low..)
@Maurice do you have any idea for my problem?
I re-uploaded the photo, the train on the quick release is at the bottom, the rudder is upside down, when calibrating the rudder I do not have enough turnover to return the rudder to the correct position and I can play!
Well, as said, you need to calibrate the center new. That’s it. Then it will be centered correctly because it’s impossible to get it off-cantered because the Dd bases don’t have a mechanical endstop, all that matters is a proper center calibration, then you will have the same DoR to both sides.
So turn the wheel how it should be (straight and centered), click Tuning Menu button, push both Joysticks at the same time. That’s it.
You are a super person, thank you so much 🙏🏿
Friends, two questions:
1. the center of the motor is slightly offset from the center point by about 5-6 units, how to center the motor and bring it to 0?
2. After finishing playing and turning off the computer, you need to disconnect the steering wheel power supply from the network (where the green indicator is), but the fan is working there quietly, or does it not need to be disconnected from the network?
If you zoom into your picture you will notice that the left and right side of slider is exactly in the center and this is why it is showing -5 (it is like the steering wheel is centered a little to the left).
It is very minimal so it wont affect that much but then again try to find your straight position and press to re-center the wheel like Maurice explained above then it should show 0.
Friends, please tell me which button you need to press to start the Wheel, I tried everything but did not get the result!
Try turning the wheel 90 degrees. That also works.
Thanks.
And one more little question. Why does the wheel on the base not match the turn in ACC or AC game? I present a photo. I did the calibration!
Did you set the correct amount of degrees of your wheel in the AC controller-settings. 900° is default, your DD probably has 1080°.